A Home Depot employee advised me on how to enter all my oven information found on the front of my oven on parts.com. I submitted parts information as stated, also very easy. My parts arrived 3 days later. I used a screwdriver & pliers, it took less than 15 minutes. Very simple and the entire process from order to installation went like clockwork. I would definitely order in the future. Thank you.
First turn off power to stove with breaker or unplug it. Then remove three screws under the front of cook top, and lifted up cook top from the front. Then brace it up with a stick about 20 inches long so you can work. Now locate the latch at the front of range. Next get some paper and labeled where each wire is connected by color. Remove wires from old part, next take out two screws by the front of part. Remove a clip on left side of part that is holding the wires. Take old part out and replace with new part, put back the two screws in front of part. Next put the wires back on using the list you made. Then replace clip to hold wires. Now turn power back on,or plug it back in. Reset clock and your done.
Oven would not stop heating even with Bake turned off!
The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!
Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan. 2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing. 3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire. 4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions. 5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
rocker switch went out preventing switching from small to large burner
Removed the rocker switch using a regular screw driver to lift the edge. Unplugged the wires from old switch. Hooked wires to new switch. Clipped switch back into place.
I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).
* * * * I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)
Stove-top Burner intermittently shut off and on-wouldn't heat properly
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.
Oven baking element glowing bright red in one spot.
Turned power off! Removed two mounting screws, disconected two slip on wire terminals from heating element. Removed Element from oven. Took about 10 minutes. Part came in two days. Re installed heating elemet by pushing on the two slip on wire terminals and re installing the two mountint screws. Took about 10 more minutes. We have been retired for 17 years. Wish all my "Honeydew jobs were this easy!
Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.
Had to replace a rubber whee that was part of one of the drawer slides.
I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.
Inner door glass on oven shattered because I opened the Oven immediatley after the self-cleaning cycle was completed, and and spilled cold water on the door!
First I removed the two screw on the lower inside of the door that hold the door to the hinges. Then I opened the oven door at about a 15 degree angle, and carefully lifted the door out of the hinge brackets. Next I had to remove the side panels on the door . After getting those side pieces off, I realized that I had to go through all layers of the door to get to the inner glass, so I decided that the best way to keep track of all those screws, was to remove each screw with the Phillips head screw driver, and immediately scotch tape that screw right next to the hole it came from. That was the best idea I had, because there are many screws in that door! Removing the old glass, and replacing it with the new glass was the easiest part of the project, just be sure not to let pieces of the insulation get between the glass and the metal frame. Then I reversed my steps to put everything back together. It probably took a bit longer than someone else because I first taped each screw on the panels, and then had to remove the tape, but I just did not want to find a handful of screws after the door was back on, or worse, somehow lose one or two. I think the hardest part of this project was getting the door back on the hinges, because the door is heavy, and you have to line up the hinges with holes in door, and slide the door in evenly. Once the door is back on, re-insert the two screws, and your oven door is as good as new (and as clean as new).
