ARG7300W (P1141296N W) Amana Range - Instructions

looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .

of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.

Thanks PartSelect.com

First I had to take the drawer completely out of the stove to reach the igniter. I then removed the screws that held the igniter in place and removed it. I had to slightly modify the replacement part by squeezing it together to make it fit into the same space. I put the replacement igniter in place and screwed it down; put the drawer back in the stove and turned on the over to see if it would light. Bingo, job done!

WEB research indicated that even though ignitor would glow, that it was likely faulty.
Turned off power at circuit breaker
Remove shelves and bottom plate from inside oven.
Unscrew deflector plate
Remove drawer under stove
Remove ignitor and unplug from connector
replace ignitor, plug in, reassemble stove.
Needed flashlight to see under stove.

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

Researched through this site to find part numbers and names. Youtubed it to see how to install the part. Ordered the exact part via this site and received it in only a day or two. Installed it in less than 15 minutes and the oven works amazing. It gets up to temp quickly and holds temp better than it has in years. Very satisfied!

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.

I used your instructions

The directions offered by others here were spot-on. I had never done any repairs on any ovens before, and this took about twenty minutes for me.

Slide out the oven racks. Slide out the pan at the bottom of the oven. Use a wrench to remove the nut in the center of the heat diverter. Unscrew three screws holding the igniter housing to the back and gas pipe. Pull the old igniter forward just a little. Remove the igniter housing from the old igniter and CAREFULLY put it on the new igniter; do not touch or break the new igniter.

Remove the drawer. Unscrew the two screws holding the shield up near the back of the oven (it's not as far or hard as it first sounds). Back inside the oven, thread wiring for the new igniter into the hole in the back. Down under, unplug the old igniter (green plug) and plug in the new one. Pull the old igniter completely out of the oven.

Replace the shield underneath. Push the remaining new igniter wiring into the hole as you replace the igniter housing with the new igniter back in place. Replace the three screws. Turn the oven on briefly to test ignition before putting the rest back together.

If all is well, replace the heat diverter and the nut holding it in place. Replace the bottom pan, oven racks, and drawer.

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!