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Ice stripper broken on ice maker
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
I removed the back panel. I used my hair dryer to remove the build up ice. Then I removed the old thermostat, spliced the wires to install the new thermostat, and crimped the wires. I saved $150 doing it myself. If you know how to splice and crimp wires, you can do this; even a caveman can do it.
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
I was easily able to find the part using the online search. I order the part and it arrived in about two days. Installing the part meant pulling out the two crisper drawers, emptying the shelf above the crispers, removing two glass shelf plates, inserting the new part, replacing the glass plates, replacing the food on the shelf and sliding in the two crisper drawers. All in all, about 3 minutes.
Removed door from slide bars with small nutdriver, pulled old gasket out of retaining slot, cleaned slot & area around it, pressed new gasket into place with fingers, relatively easy. Used hair dryer to make sure gasket was formed properly and contacted fridge unit eavenly.
I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98. So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.
There were three parts in question, the defrost timer (inside the casing near the control dial at the top of the refridgerator), the defrost thermostat (behind the back wall of the freezer), and the heater coil (ditto). We tested the defrost timer by opening it up, advancing it to the defrost cycle, and waiting for the compressor to start up again, showing that the timer was working. Then we replaced the defrost thermostat and found that the heater coil worked.
The hardest part was figuring out how to open the casing and get to the timer. If I do it over again I will replace the $20 thermostat first and then deal with the timer if necessary. To get to the thermostat you can easily take the freezer door off by removing two screws in the door tracks. There was even an arrow pointing to one of the screws! Take out the food trays and then unscrew the back wall with a nut driver. The thermostat was clipped to one of the copper freezer tubes. I unplugged one end of the thermostat circuit at the lead to the heater coil and then cut the thermostat out of the circuit and used wire nuts to connect the new thermostat.