ARB2109ASR (PARB2109AS0) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

I noticed the the freezer was beginning to thaw out and the refrigerator was no longer cooling. Due to the age of the refrigerator I thought that it couldn't be anything too major so I sought out some advice and order the necessary parts through partselect.com The problem was the thermostat in the freezer and changing out was pretty simple. The website offers some good advice along with quick delivery which makes attempting the repairs worthwhile. I would definitely use partselect.com again for any other appliance repairs!

After the backordered gasket arrived, I took it out of the box and placed it over the back of a kitchen chair and used the hair dryer to get the shipping kinks out of the gasket. After unloading the door of the Freezer compartment, I made a temporary door from a piece of styrofoam board. After removing all of the screws holding the gasket and inner panel to the door, I removed the inner panel and took it outside to melt the ice acumulated on the back and to install the new gasket. I removed the old gasket, and installed the new one over the edges of the panel carefully to avoid tearing the gasket and make sure it was evenly laid out on the panel. This installation went easily because I took the time to see how the old gasket was on the door before I removed it.
I then scewed the panel with the new gasket to the door of the freezer. Once back on the refridgerator, I used the hair dryer and a dull putty knife to get the edge of the gasket pressing firmly against the refridgerator frame. This last step was critical, because the gasket was distorted by the packing and storage of the gasket in the shipping box. I was not satisfied with the amount of magnetic pull from the new gasket and used Vasaline Jelly to create a better seal with the refridgerator.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. First I unplugged the refrigerator. I then removed the wire shelf and wire tray from the freezer. I then removed the ice maker be removing the three screws that hold it in place. I then disconnected the icemaker electrical connector. I then removed the 7 screws that hold the panel at the back of the freezer revealing the evaporator and heat exchanger. I then unclipped the icemaker wiring harness from the panel. The whole evaporator/heat exchanger was buried in ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. This took about half an hour. The bi-metal thermostat is attached to the heat exchanger by a clip. Be sure to wear latex gloves to prevent cutting your fingers on the aluminum fins. I disconnected the electrical connectors and then carefully unclipped the thermostat. I discovered that the new thermostat had spade connectors where as the original had one spade connector and a bullet connector on the brown wire. I reused the original bullet connector by cutting it off the old thermostat and splicing it onto the new thermostat. I reversed the process for reassembly. There is no longer any ice build up and the refrigerator is working normally.

Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.

I could hear a noisy rattling sound coming from the freezer section of the refrigerator. It sounded like a bad fan or loose part. I noticed the sound would go away if I turned the freezer section of the fridge OFF.

I opened up the freezer section and put the frozen food in a cooler and turned OFF the freezer. The back wall has several hex head screws that I was able to remove by using the small nutdriver portion of a "Husky" brand 6-in-1 screwdriver. I had to first remove the icemaker and disconnect the quick release power connector to remove the back panel.

After removing the back panel and fan vent, it was easy to access the fan. It was very apparent that the bearings in the fan were worn out. Removing two more screws released the entire fan and housing.

The replacement part from PartSelect.com arrived quickly. PartSelect.com had the lowest price that I could find on the Internet, and it was not available from Sears. Go figure!

The part number matched the Sears part number and was a direct replacement both mechanically and electrically in size and power requirements.

All I had to do was remove the wired spade connectors from the old fan and insert the new fan assembly. The connectors were an exact match and the whole process of replacement took about 15 minutes. More time was spent moving the frozen food and ice maker. I used pliers to help remove the spade connectors and nylon wire clips as they were on pretty tight.

Be careful not to damage the delicate fins of the condenser.

After replacing the fan assembly, I installed the back panel, ice maker, frozen food, and turned the freezer back on. The whole process took less than an hour. The refrigerator now runs quietly like it is supposed to.

I have to say, this is the second part that I have ordered from PartSelect.com (the first part was to replace a water pump for a wash machine) and it has been a very good process. I wish working with Sears was this easy.

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

very easy.....
1. removed the food items from the shelf
2. raised the shelf and removed the broken support post
3. inserted the new support post and guided the drawer rails to rest in the new support slots
4. cleaned the glass shelf and replaced the food items
5. made my wife very happy now that the veg drawer opens and closed like new.

The ordering was easy, however the installing was very difficult. Screws all around door had to not only be loosened but most had to be removed in order to get gasket behind the lip. We (my 17 yr old daughter and I )unscrewed the top and half way down the the sides and did half and half. The job took us approx 4 hrs. In all fairness neither one of us has every done anything like this and we were very proud of ourselves for accomplishing the task. When the gasket was in place we used the blow drying to smooth the gasket. Probably not anything I would attempt again because of the time committment, however, I was trying to save some money.

Someone suggested removing the door, however, I couldn't figure out how to do that. On the up side, it did give me the confidence to replace a screen door myself. You tube helped me with that. ( I couldn't find a "how to" on how to install this gasket at least not for this type of appliance.

First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.