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Getting F 1 and 2 error codes and the oven turned itself off.
Really easy but in this model there are 2 versions of the sensor, male and female. The website didn't have any place to see that. So the first sensor that came was male but we needed the other. After calling they sent me a return form and sent the new part (which was actually much cheaper) overnight and it went in very quickly. Would check this out again when anything went wrong. they are great folks to work with.
If your stove work's but your oven won't get hot it is your ignigter the ignighter in proper working condition sends a signal to the gas valve saying let the gas flow its ok. When the ignighter quits working it won't let the gas flow and your oven will not get hot. It is an easy fix. Just pull out all of interior parts the racks and the bottom heat shield the ignighter the white stone looking part that is screwed to the burner with two wires and it really don't matter what way the wires go back one of the wires connects in the back so you will have to pull the oven out. Now you have to clean under it and your done.
Removed oven door and burner guard. Removed screws holding ignitor bracket and small panel beneath oven door. Disconnected ignitor wires behind panel and pulled out ignitor. Removed old ignitor from bracket and inserted new unit. Fed wires back down thru tubing and screwed in bracket. Connected wires and replaced panel. (Note: old ignitor glowed but would not pass enough current to operate gas valve)
First turn off power to stove with breaker or unplug it. Then remove three screws under the front of cook top, and lifted up cook top from the front. Then brace it up with a stick about 20 inches long so you can work. Now locate the latch at the front of range. Next get some paper and labeled where each wire is connected by color. Remove wires from old part, next take out two screws by the front of part. Remove a clip on left side of part that is holding the wires. Take old part out and replace with new part, put back the two screws in front of part. Next put the wires back on using the list you made. Then replace clip to hold wires. Now turn power back on,or plug it back in. Reset clock and your done.
Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.
The repairman that had come had stated that this part is no longer made, but I was able to locate one through PartSelect and was able to replace it with minimal effort.
I removed the three screws that held down the stove glass top surface and had a person hold the stove top up while I removed the two screws which held the autolatch assembly in place. I then swapped the leads from the failed assembly to the new one and replaced the screws which were removed. New assembly tested out fine and oven was able to self-clean again.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.