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ALE956EAC Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALE956EAC
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noise in dryer
took frount off ,then filter, pulled drum out, then blower plate & spun impeller off. went back together easy ,except belt . that gave me a little problem but finally got it thanks
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • JOHN from MODENA, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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will not blow air
I first unpluged the dryer. Then I
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blower and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel Multi Rib Belt
  • Robert from Ada, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Dryer sounded like it was going down manhiem road (pot holes).
I removed the access panel on the lower front. Then I removed the front door panel (noting where the wires went; 1 for red, 2 for black, 3 for grey). Then I removed the 2 screws holding the top down and lifted it up. Then I reached underneath the drum and took the belt off the tensioner. Then I removed the front drum panel with the lint filter, guides, and front felt seal. Then I took out the drum. Then I replaced the roller and post (with bracket). The old post was worn, so it was a good thing I got the new post (thanks to someone else's reccomendation). Then I put it all back together. It was surprizingly easy. I just wish these parts weren't so dad gum expensive. I paid $20 for one roller and post. I wish I could have also replaced the felt seals ($17 each), the other roller (another $8) and the sliders and felt pads ($20 per side). And a new belt. By then, you might as well buy a new dryer!
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller Drum Support Roller and Shaft Assembly
  • Bradley from Crest Hill, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Squealing noise until the dryer warms up
Replaced the two drum rollers and the tensioning arm roller. NOTES: 1. There are two drum rollers, the diagram seems to show only one. Recommend replacing both drum rollers and the support bracket shaft assemblies since the shafts might be scored. 2. The tensioning arm roller was actually much worse and frozen, so once you are in it is best to replace ALL three rollers. 3. I also replaced the belt since it was worse for wear from the frozen rollers. 4. The PartSelect video for the procedure is for the Whirlpool branded version of this dryer. The internal parts and construction are identical, however, the initial steps for opening up the dryer are different. On the Amana the top also tilts up, but is held down by two bolts, and not just the spring clips. Steps are: a) Remove bottom kick plate which is held in by two bolts on the lower front edge. b) remove the retention bolts that are now exposed on the front panel and remove the front panel by pulling it down from the top spring clips. c) Unbolt and remove the front drum retention panel. d) The two bolts that hold down the top can now be removed and the top panel tilted up so the drum can be lifted out after the belt is loosened. The whole process is very quick and easy. Only tricky part is fumbling around behind the motor to move the tensioning roller and arm to remove and re-install the belt. Also, I had cheap spring clip pliers so I was fumbling with the spring clips that hold the rollers on their shafts.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller and Shaft Assembly Drum Support Roller
  • Mario from MANHATTAN BCH, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Drum stopped turning, motor still running
Dryer stopped tumbling, so bad belt was my first thought. Dryer is in vacation home so did not have immediate access to it to diagnose. Ordered belt and discovered that the poorly designed motor pulley had broken and the belt jumped onto the motor shaft and burned through the original belt. Week 2 after ordering pulley, installation went per YouTube video. Glad I also replaced the belt because it was brittle and cracked. Suspect it had been slipping because sheets would ball up into a log, possibly because the drum wasn't spinning fast enough. Anyhoo, after repair all seems OK.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Richard from PORTLAND, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Idler pulley froze
Watched YouTube video
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing Single Drum Glide Felt Pad Multi Rib Belt Drum Glide
  • Joseph from LAGRANGE, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Bad element
googled make and model number of dryer! Found a trouble shooting comment like my problem! Dryer not getting hot! Watched video on locating and removing element and Hightemp sensor of my model. Then went in and inspected element ! I was able to see that element was bad-had a break in middle. Removed old one and ordered new one! This was a Sunday night! Had back together after work on Wednesday evening! Total time approx 45 minutes! This includes time researching online and taking two sensors off old element and mounting on new element! Easy fix!
Parts Used:
Heating Element (Orange Dot)
  • John from NEWARK, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Heat Loss
How to take apart a dryer:
The first way:
1) Remove front lower panel (2 screws on bottom).
2) Remove the front black plastic air duct.
3) If you have long arms, or an extention socket wrench, you might be able to reach the heating unit, otherwise use the Second way:

The second way:
1) Remove front lower panel, as this will expose the screws to the dry door unit.
2) Remove dryer door unit (2 screws on bottom, 2 spring clips on top), and disconnect assoc wires.
3) Remove dryer lid:
3.1) Remove 2 screws on front (previously hidden by door unit
3.2) Remove 2 clip hooks on back of dryer
3.3) Lift lid rear above center guides, and wiggle away from front spring clips
4) Lay dryer on back, as this will allow easier removal of the drum
5) Remove screws securing the heater control unit.

Attempt 1: Disconnected heating element and saw that the heating coils were broken. Ordered new heating coil and new belt.
Attempt 2: 3 weeks after installing new heating element, my wife informed me that the unit was no longer putting out heat!!! So, I ordered the Thermostat and Thermal Fuse. Put dryer back together.
Attempt 3: Turned it on - absolutely nothing - dead, dead, dead. Discussed purchasing new $600+ dryer. Started taking it apart again, and discovered that door wire was never reattached. Meaning the dryer thought the door was wide open.
Attempt 4: Now the dryer squeaks. Took dryer partially apart and added white grease to wheels that support the drum. Currently, all is well with the world.

Moral of the story: Replace the entire heating unit, check belt for cracks and grease the wheels if you get a chance.
Parts Used:
Limit Thermostat High Limit Thermal Fuse
  • Steve from Columbia Station, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Loud Squealing Sound When Dryer Is Running>
First unplug the dryer,then remove the front bottom panel. With your 5/16 nut driver reach to the rear of the vent tube under the dryer and remove the lone screw that holds the tube in place. Lean the dryer forward and remove the tube from the rear of the dryer,this will allow you to see and reach the idler wheel from the front. Release the belt,feel for the clip that holds the wheel in place on the opposite side of the front,with your thumb nail or something else if preferred pry out on one side of the clip until it pops off. Slide the wheel off being careful not to lose the washer,slide the new wheel on and replace the clip. Put the belt back on replace the tube,which is actually the toughest part because you have to find the hole for the lone screw as you can't see it,but with a little patience it is easily enough done. Put the vent hose back on replace the front panel and plug it in and go!!it took me 30 min. Alittle tough to feel for some of the parts,but really much easier than you would think.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing
  • Michael from Milton, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dyer Blower went bad a dime fell in and wore it out
The repair looked simple enough until it came time to take the out wheel off. Because you can not hold the motor shaft(and the wheel screws on) it was necessary to remove the whole motor assembly and then grind the out shaft down, then use a small screwdriver to take the remaining shaft off.
I must say it was nice to recieve the part in as fast as I did we live in a very rural area and things like that are very hard to find
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Myron from Wolf Point, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Dryer drum wouldn't turn and motor would shut off
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
Parts Used:
Clamp-Motor
  • Cynthia M from Westfield, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Air duct was broken,taking too long to dry
removed the bottom panel. then the door. unscrewed the 4 screws, removed duct and replaced. parts came fast and fit just right! no issues at all! I recomend Parts select as an appliance vendor for parts.
Parts Used:
Lint Duct Assembly
  • GILBERT from SAN JOSE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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When the dryer was on it would still tumble, but made an aweful sound
My son n law took the fron off the dryer, whilw I looked on the inertnet to locate whatever part we would find to be in need of. He pulled the front panel off and the drum out to dicover it was the bracket and glide. They were easily replaced by popping the bracket out and snapping th new one in then placing the guide on it proper spot.
Parts Used:
Drum Glide Cylinder Glide Bracket
  • Vicky from Browns Mills, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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dryer only buzzed when started
This amana dryer didn't have the lower panel with screws. Instead, I removed the brackets in the back and found that the whole top would separate from the rest of the body (except for wiring, of course.) There seemed to be screws holding the top to the base in the front, but these are just guide posts. There are two spring clips in the front that you can pop loose with a putty knife.

Then there are two screws inside that fasten the front to the rest of the frame. Once I removed these, and the electrical connections to the door switch and the light bulb, the whole front came of just by tilting it forward and pulling the front panel up off of metal tabs on the base.

The rest of the repair went smoothly per other descriptions.
Parts Used:
Motor Assembly - Threaded Shaft
  • Gregory from Holland, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer racket, not drying clothes
Being my lousy Maytag washer died THE PREVIOUS DAY, spewing water, etc. and I had rushed out and bought a new washer, I was determined not to replace the dryer (though I now am a serious NON_FAN of Maytag).

I disassembled the whole dryer and finally got to the blower wheel which was broken lose from the molded nut. I supposed something like a dime or penny got in there to shred it.

PartSelect's website allowed me to find the part in 5 minutes. It was on my doorstep the next afternoon.

Installation was straightforward BECAUSE I stacked all the screws and and labeled them appropriately. It took about 30 minutes to reassemble and the toughest bit was getting the drum in with the belt positioned properly.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Richard P from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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All Instructions for the ALE956EAC
106 - 120 of 498