ALE230RCW Amana Dryer - Instructions

The repair went better than expected. I watched the video of how to replace the dryer belt and although it wasn't exactly the same, just by watching the video I was able to find my way through the process. Thank you very much for taking the time to create the video, it was very helpful and saved me a bundle of money by being able to do the repair myself.Thanks again!!! Dano, Melbourne Fl.

removed front, top cabinet, drum, belt and motor. replaced idler pulley on motor. replaced motor, belt, drum and cabinet parts. test ran fine.

This is merely taking the old filter out and putting the new filter in. You will not find this part unless you go online or get lucky and find one in a used dryer. It is not necessary but I do recommend vacuuming the inside of the dryer beneath the filter. It is amazing how much lint can be in there.

I removed the top and front of the dryer then the lint filter housing and frame that holds in the drum then the drum belt and drum. Found that tha drive pulley was spining on ths shaft. I removed the fan cover, so I could remove the fan. I disconted wire harnsh and removed motor clamps from back and front of motor. Removed drive pulley and held shaft with a pare of chanellocks. I removed fan with 7/8 socket and impact drill.Then I replaced the motor by taking the motor frame out of the drier for easyer actess. Install fan on new motor by holding drive pulley with cressent while putting on fan with impact drill. Put motor in u shaped saddles making sure they are seated in the bottom. You may have to turn the barring a little. Then reinstale clamps. Put motor back in drier and put drier back togeather. simple saves money 144.00$ for motor and beld no labor. Ed from Mojve CA.

Remove drum assembly, replace drum roller, belt with Pulley wheel bearing. The whole problem was corrected and the unit now runs like new.

My wife told me the dryer was not drying. It tumbled but had no heat. I went online and discovered that the possible problems were a bad heating element, or a bad thermal switch. I borrowed a multimeter at work and determined that the heating element had continuity but the thermal switch did not. That made me happy since the thermal switch is a cheap part. Unfortunately you have to take the whole dryer apart to get to it but I took pictures of any wire connections and it was not that bad. While doing it I decided to also replace the belt since it was fraying in some places. I ordered the parts from Parts select on a wednesday and had them friday morning. I used the attached video's to correctly connect the belt and replace the switch and then cleaned out all the lint from the inside cabinet and hoses and now it works perfectly. Once I took the whole thing apart I also found a long lost 10 dollar bill behind the panels. This repair was well worth the effort and cost only 26 dollars, if I deduct the 10 I found net cost was 16 dollars. Could not be happier, Very happy that a place like Parts Select exists, without it I would have been replacing a perfectly good dryer.

Ordered part ( door latch ) flowed instructions easily fixed same.

I removed the front panels, lint screen, ductwork to fan, motor assembly, drum, drum rollers, and vent pipe to outside. I then cleaned years of accumulated lint and dust from the cabinet. Replaced the drum rollers, drum glide, idle pulley and motor assembly. The hardest part was getting my arm in to place the idle pulley onto the drive belt.

I tried to do the repair like the video said. My dryer was different. Using a putty knife to get the dryer lid up did not work There was 2 screws on each side holding the dryer top down and had to be removed. Did not have to take drum out.

Not quite as show on your repair intructions. But, all in all not that difficult. Things went very well. However, in the midst of the repair I found I had to replace other worn out parts.

Followed the instructions shown in the video. Very easy,

I first unplugged the dreyer from the wall, I then used the putty knife to push clips in on top of the dreyer and opened the top. I used a nut driver to remove the front panel and unplugged the light and door switch wires. I then reached under the drum and removed the belt, and then lifted the drum out of the cabinet. I used snap ring pliers to remove the rollers and replaced.them with the new ones. After installing the new rollers I placed the new belt around the the.drum and lifted the drum by the belt placing it back into the cabinet. With the drum back in place I reattached the front panel and turned the drum to make sure it was not hanging up on the felt rings. With the drum moving freely and the belt hanging down I layed back in front of the dreyer and put the belt on the motor and reached up to.the tension pulley and placed the belt under the pulley. Once the belt had tension on it I again manually rotated the drum to make sure it wasn't binding anywhere. All was good so I replugged the light and door wires, shut the lid and plugged the dreyer back into the wall socket, turned it on and it worked great. From start to finish it took about.40 minutes and half that time was spent cleaning out the cabinet which had quite a bit of lint. I have used the.dreyer several times since the repair, and this completely took care of the problem. I highly recommend ordering the rollers along with the belt as mine were well worn and it saved me from having to take it apart twice. All in all a very eazy do it yourself project.

Too simple to describe.

I would have been sick to have spent 100 bucks or more on a repair guy, or worse, several hundred on a new one. Six bucks and I'm back in action. I am only average handy, so anybody with a little talent can do this. I took the bottom front cover off first. Then opened the door and took the cover on the inside off. When you do this, you will have to disconnect wires from the door switch and inside light. Don't worry about it, they are pretty easy to remember what goes where, but if your scared, get little pieces of masking tape, write on it which connector it lands on, then tape it on the wire. The inside door cover will also take the vent and the connecting duct to the blower with it. You may have to wiggle the duct a little to get it off the blower. After that, I unfastened the top and lifted it back and out of the way. You should now be able to fully see the drum. No bolts, just slide it right out. If your belt is still around it, you may have to play with it a bit to get the tension off the belt. Once you got the drum out, you'll see the idler arm and pulley. I took the whole arm off (one nut and bolt) to make it easier to put the new pulley on. Once off, the hardest part of the job was to get the retaining ring off. If you got the right tool, it would be no sweat, but I didn't want to go to town, so I used two pairs of needle nose pliers to get it apart. New pulley slides right on, however, I would advise cleaning off any hardened grease on the idler arm connection and putting new grease on it. Put everything back together in reverse order. The belt can be a little tricky, but they have an awesome video on here, and once I watched it, had the belt on in 5 minutes. Buttoned everything back up just in time for kickoff. About an hour and a half work, less if I had the right tool to get the retaining ring off.

First I take off all front cover and then the dirt strainer next is the dryer drum holder next the top cover I lift up and so you room to set the dum belt