AES3760BAS Amana Range - Instructions

first the part was ordered but found it way too overpriced. went to an automotive store and bought door edge molding for a lot less. and it was better quality that the original gasket. with the self stick interior of the door edge molding was a fast and simple repair and more secure.

Removed the two screws, on both sides of the oven wall corner. Gently lift the front end of the glass top and pull towards me and disconnect the two electrical sockets. Carried the glass top assembly on the kitchen table and turned upside down. Removed the six screws. Removed the assembly from the glass top. Turn the top burners assembly over and disengaged the two clips of the burned out burner from the assembly plate. Transferred the two clips to the new burner on the exact locations like the old ones were. I have placed the new burner on the location and snapped the clips on the slots. Removed the connectors one piece at a time and connected to the new burner. Reversed the previous disassembly and all was done Works like a charm. Thank you all for assisting me in providing the necessary parts and video instructions. It was a lot cheaper than to buy a new range.

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

Remove power from appliance, verify power is off. loosen two side screws that hold cook top to counter top. Gently push appliance up from bottom, everything from now on is done gently !. every component is very fragile. hope you have enough room to move cook top to side, if not, have help to hold it for you. #2 screwdriver, remove screws on all sides, two front, 3 sides, 3 in back. Note placement of connected wires in the affected element. # 2 screwdriver remove one screw on bar holding set of elements, lift and loosen metal spring and remove element, ply wires off with pliers. ( I suggest you clean inside cook top if needed) Note place of springs(Numbers) and remove to place on new element. reverse order to complete.

Remove 2 screws in upper left corner of stove holding sensor in place. Pull sensor out and disconnect plastic electrical connector. Select appropriate adapter (both styles provided with new part) & reinstall. Power up stove and select bake on control unit to test. Works like a charm!

Upon receiving the replacement part, I noted that the socket was held in place by simple expanding tabs. TURN OFF POWER TO THE OVEN. Using a right angle pick or similar tool, bend the tabs inward on the existing socket and remove. Disconnect the white, black and green wires. Note which tab is the green tab. Attach the wires to the new socket. Push the new socket into place, aligning the key bump on the socket with he slot in the oven wall opening. Install bulb and diffuser.

I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

Followed directions as supplied. New part did not work, so it must be in the control unit which is no longer available. So time for a new range.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

Lifted off oven door for easier access. removed 2 screws holding element at rear of oven. pulled old element forward. disconnected 2 wires. slid wires on new element pushed in place and tightened the 2 screws. reinstalled door and presto, works like new

I think the installation instructions are fairly self explanatory. This is the second item I've ordered from Parts Select and I'm thrilled with their service. The items are always less expensive than other sites and they deliver what they promise. I would highly recommend them.

i did fine