ADG20L1W Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

Replaced cycling thermostat but wasn't the problem. Tested the coils with ohm meter & found no read on the one with 3 prongs. Replaced both anyway. Top of dryer is held on with 2 clips, popped it off to reveal 2 screws on front panel. Bottom is held by 2 clips must lift straight up. Removed bracket that holds the coils in & removed wires. They only go on 1 way. Installed new coils , no more problems.

Turn off power. Move dryer away from wall and release the top by lifting up to release the two clips. Lay top against the wall. Remove the two screws, one in each corner, left and right inside the cabinet. Lift front panel up and out away from dryer. Place along right side of dryer. You may need to unlatch the wiring for the door switch. Reach inside the bottom of dryer and release the belt. Lift the dryer drum out along with the belt. Observe the two guide rollers that the drum rides on. Using a blade screw driver release the clips that hold the rollers onto the spindles. Clean up around each spindle. Install new rollers in reverse order and put all back together. The hardest part is reinstalling the belt. Put belt around the drum, around the motor pulley and then onto the tension roller. Good luck..

Removed front panel unscrewed the 2 screws on the coil cover. The coil with two prongs had to upside down 3 the prong coil right side up that only way the cove will fit, plug them in re attach the cover and your done

Parts came as ordered and in really good time. The valves were very easy to install, just a matter of removing lower housing and the two screws holding in the old valves. The plug and play, no calibration needed and the dryer works like new. Very easy fix and the instructional videos were very helpful. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Replaced bad coils

Removed 2 screws at the lint filter, unplugged dryer, next I popped the top off with a standard screw driver lifted the top all the way up and secured it from falling back down, used a 5/16" nut driver to remove the top 2 screws holding the face on, disconnected the door switch, pulled the face panel off and set it aside, then I removed the tension pulley on the bottom and took the drum out, unscrewed 2 screws holding the coils removed the old coils and installed the new reconnected the leads to them, vacuumed out the cabinet and motor, inspected all moving parts for wear, including the belt, reinstalled every thing in reverse order, had job complete and ready for clothes in 9 mins, it helps to have your son/daughter hold the drum against the back wall while reconnecting the tensioner and belt.

First I opened the back panel & check the fuse with multi meter tool ( put in ohms & set it in 200K) & the fuse is Ok, try to run the dryer while looking in the flame dock & the burner starts & had a fire till about 2-3 mins. & flame comes off, what I did is I open the front door to access into the gas burner, check gas valve coils with multi meter tool for continuity & found out that one of the coil doesn't have continuity. I ordered a pair of coil that is located on top of the gas valve on this site & unexpectedly it came in the next day, WOW! that's a fast delivery I was very pleased w/ the service, come home from work & installed it right away & it took me 5-10 mins. Put back everything & try to run it & it works properly. So happy with & my wife as we'll, thanks for the great fast delivery.