ADG20L1W Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

Both washer and dryer always worked perfectly. Suddenly, dryer wasn’t drying laundry properly. Problem... no heat. Cheapest price I could find calling for appliance service was about $160 to replace coil set but no one would tell me this would fix the problem. This was after calling a number of repair firms and trying to get a somewhat close estimate of what my problem was and what the repair cost. Not knowing, I might have just paid the $160 but what turned me off was having a service call fee of anywhere from $50-$80 with no one willing to tell me what the problem might most likely be before coming out or give me an estimate over the phone other than a range of $160 - $275. I just did not want to have someone come out for $50 -$80 and tell me that I needed to spend $275 and still owe them the service call even if I did not agree.
Found diagnostic and repair instructions help on line. The diagnostic information indicated a high probability, roughly 50%, that replacing the coil set would solve the problem and found the coil set cost $19.21 plus shipping, so I ordered the coil kit for total of $26.70. Note... I am a 71 year old amateur never having worked as a repairman of any kind except for my own needs.
The repair itself took less than 30 minutes start to finish and was one of the most straight forward, glitch free, easy repairs I have ever done. This is a gas dryer but still uses 110 power so I unplugged the 110 power cord from outlet. Followed suggested guidance on opening the dryer cabinet from the front and presto, the coil set I needed to replace was immediately right in front with easy access. Removed 2 screws for the hold-down bracket, slipped off both coils, one at a time, removing the wiring connection for each coil and then reconnecting to each new coil before slipping each new coil back into place and reattaching the hold down bracket. Reinstalled the dryer door and cabinet front in reverse order from taking off... 4 screws total. Plugged in the 110 power cord and put in a damp load of freshly washed laundry. Presto... 30 minutes later... dry laundry. Note... could do the same repair again in half the time since I took it slow and careful 1st time and also took time to remove dust before completing repair. I like things to look like new inside and out and it did when I was done. $26.70 and good as new. Why I didn't spend $160 - $275 is pretty obvious now.

The video for the Heat Kit replacement is excellent. However, i could not replace the fuse without removing the heating coil. It was the only way my hands could get the fuse bracket out/then in. I accidently inverted the heating coil when trying to replace it, and struggled for a minute or so. Be sure your HC coil is in the same position as when you removed it. You might want to include the heating coil removal as a standard part of the replacement video. He specifically mentioned NOT having to remove the coil. Otherwise the video and and the instructions are perfect. You need to make sure you clean out the tubing/vent prior to replacing the thermostat and fuse. Otherwise you are wasting you time. Perfect repair, easily done..luv it.

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

Replacing the lint filter was, of course, the easy part. The rest of the time was spent removing the front of the dryer and cleaning out all the lint that had escaped through the old broken filter. I completely took apart the lint traps inside the front, vacuumed everything out, and replaced the ductwork to the outside that was almost completely blocked with lint. Please take the time to inspect your dryer, and do this if necessary! I feel we prevented a house fire by getting to this in time - and I will be more vigilant in the future.

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

took out the old, put in the new

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

I basically followed the instructions in the video provided. They were very clear and detailed. I love this website. This is the second repair on this dryer using PartSelect.com Runs like new and I saved a lot on labor costs.

by hand

I first had gone to the repair which told me there were only f few parts that could cause the loss of power including to the dryer light. They also showed how to test the units with an ohm meter. I then visited this site which also had how to videos for the actual removal and installation of the parts. I would like to have seen a step by step procedure for determining and testing to identify the defective part along with the video for replacement on this site. However, I did find this site most helpful and placed on order the part I needed. It arrived the very next day. And it took very little time to install. I had already removed the defective units. The dryer is again functioning . The actual cause of the failure od the defective unit was due to overheating because of a large amount of lent blocking the air glow at the blower unit. We clean the lent trap with every use. However this is not good enough. I think that the front panel needs to be opened at least yearly to properly clean the area in front of the blower unit. Hope this helps any of you other DYI people out there.

Unfortunately this was not the problem, it turned out to be a bad igniter, but, the parts would need replaced soon and now I have a almost new dryer. It was pretty easy and there was help online from utube. The parts were very easy to find and swap out.

Diagnosed the problem as a blown thermal fuse. Ordered High Limit Kit. Watched a YouTube video on how to replace the fuse. A little trouble with dropping a metal bracket -3- times to the bottom of the dryer. A little inginuity solved that problem. Replaced the high limit fuse, and thermal fuse. Cleaned duckwork thouroughly. Was very clogged with lint, which probably caused the overheat problem in the first place.Put everything back together, dryer fired right up!