ADG20L1W Admiral Dryer - Instructions

i ordered a new filter and put in in the dryer to replace the broken one. everything worked out fine. and is working fine now.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

Very easy

I have to admit I did not fix this. This dryer is at our beach house and my daughter and her family went down with part in tow. My son in law is an engineer and very smart and handy. He had the dryer purring like a kitten in no te with the part ordered. Thank you Lord and Will!!

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

Used the circuit diagram from the dryer compartment to check continuity. found Thermal Fuse open circuit. Viewed PartSelect Youtube video for fitting instructions. Really easy after that.

I'm an ex auto mechanic so I'm pretty good w/my hands. I just followed your instructions on a video you provided & it was really easy. Thanks!

usually run through these tests first before I have to open until the unit.. establish that your 240 volt breaker didn't trip... If the breaker is okay... Unplug the dryer and use a multimeter to ensure you have 240 volts at the receptacle... If you are okay there... next check the door switch... You can press the button and you should hear a click... If you hear it click you should be okay there... Okay let's open the top... There are 2 black latches on the unit towards each side... You can use a flathead screwdriver or a putty knife to depress the clips while pulling gently upwards on the lid and it will open...from past experience fixing dryers I knew that more than likely it was the thermal fuse.... With the unit still unplugged... Look towards the back of the unit you will see the heating element...There is a thermostat and the thermal fuse on the bracket with the element... The thermal fuse is the small black and silver thing about the diameter of a dime. What the thermal fuse does is protects the unit if it should get too hot... pretty much a safety mechanism... What you want to do is remove the screw holding the little bracket that houses the fuse and remove it... It is a little tight back there this is why I remove it...Next remove the 2 wires and test the fuse using a continuity test making sure that you have a closed circuit... If it's an open circuit that would be your problem... Order the high limit thermostat kit... You should replace the thermostat also which comes in the kit...remove the 2 screws holding the thermostat down and once you get your replacement parts just replace the thermostat and fuse and you'll be good to go...

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

Unplug the Dryer; remove the lower exterior cover and white plastic drum vent with nut drivers. These two fuses will be setting on top of the function board in front of the gas heating tube.
With a short screwdriver, remove the fuse cover/holder, lift fuse and unplug, replace, re-plug, screw back the cover/holder and you’re done.
Reverse your initial actions...

I replaced the two coils that regulate the gas to turn on and the other to hold open to burn, unplug two connections and remove 2 screws and then replace the coils less then 5 minutes to do this,

Followed directions on movie. This was a simple process. Although in the end I found that replacing the rollers was not the problem in the end. It turned out to be the motor, which I was able to repair with some prior experience with electric motors and a bit of oil. That's why it took as long as it did to make the total repair. Still happy with the outcome.