A500S Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed front panel (2 screws at base)

Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)

Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)

Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels

Disconnected the hoses , power cord, and the drain hose. Tipped the washer on it's front panel and removed the old belt and spun the new one on. Tested for tightness as per the instructions and sat the washer up and hooked everything up. Total time---5-10 minutes.
Local appliance dealer insisted this wasn't the belt we needed. Thanks to your website we easily selected the right one. Thanks.

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)

First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !

Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.

Great Company to deal with!

Unplug washer and shut off water valves. Remove water hoses from the faucets and caught the water in the hoses in a bucket. I removed the drain hose from the back of the washer and caught the water in the bucket. Remove front panel by removing 2-screws at bottom and tilting it out to come off. Disconnected the hoses to the pump and caught most of the water in the bucket.. An old towel stuffed under the bottom pan of the washer, under the pump hole caught most of the rest of the water. Tip the washer on its back and removed the belt coming from the motor. Removed 3-screws that hold the pump on and angled the pulley end through the hole in the bottom of the washer. I just reversed the procedure to install the new pump and everything else. I would have replaced the hoses and belts, but I had just done that about a couple of years ago, when I replaced the connector at the top back of the washer for the hose from the pump and hose to the drain in the wall, that had a crack in it and was leaking.

Since my missus keeps her appliances like new, it behoves us to buy something of good quality when new. We did that. Now, after almost 20 years, the washer complained it needed new belts, which I complied. Tilted it up against the wall after pulling power cord. Removed both belts and replaced. Adjusted pump belt by loosening pump and then retightening. This is easy to get to by removing front (removing 2 philips screws). Piece of cake.

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

Removed 2 Philip screws from bottom front panel. The belts came as a set, so pay attention to the belt sizes when replacing them. Have had the new belts installed now for a week or longer with no issues. Looks like a good fix.

First I bought a Maytag spanner wrench on eBay, you have to have it. It was $12.00 including shipping. Then when the parts showed up the next day followed the video and had it done in just under an hour from gathering my tools and cleaning up. The video was perfect and I had no troubles what so ever. The quote from the repair services was $280.00 and I did it for less than $90.00

Based on info from website, sounded like it was the Belt Kit that needed replacing. While waiting for the Belt Kit, decided to take the Agitator out to have a "look-see". OMG! There was liquid fabric softener gunk so thick in, around, underneath the agitator that the unit could not get traction. The burning smell was the gunk getting hot as the agitator tried to work. After a thorough cleaning of the agitator and anything relating to it's ability to agitate, my Maytag is performing like it was brand new! I'm keeping the Belt Kit, because my washer is older and I've heard from friends and family that have purchased the new water restricted units, absolutely hate them; like the "low flow" toilets, instead of flushing once, you now have to flush 5 times. They are washing more smaller loads and double rinsing each load to get their clothes clean and free of residue. I'm a 69 year old woman who finds your website and your marvelous contributors an absolute Blessing!

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Remove 2 screws from bottom of front panel, swing panel out and lift off. Remove 2 hex head screws from inside front corners. Lift top to expose injector in left rear corner. Remove clamp, remove injector from air break box then use screwdriver to pry the lip back through the hole in the tub. Carefully squeeze the lip of injector through the tub hole. Silicone grease or liquid detergent may help. Then reattach the injector to air break box and reassemble washer.

Could not complete because sent the wrong part (just a seal instead of the tube) several times, in spite of talking on the phone for hours. Eventually gave up and ordered from another company.

Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill