Models > A3878XRW > Instructions

A3878XRW Admiral Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for A3878XRW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A3878XRW
46-60 of 304
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Bake Element wouldn't heat up to temperature

  • Customer: John from Foxboro MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I had viewed the video link on PartsSelect. I removed 2 screws and proceeded to pull element out to disconnect wire connectors. However one side the wire connected was melted on to the contact tab of the element and the wire was broken off. I proceeded to remove back panel from stove and located the exposed broken wire. I stripped back wire and installed a new wire connector that I had in my tool box. I fed wire through small hole. Then I re-installed back panel. I then connected wires to the new bake element and installed element mounting screws.

INDICATROR LIGHT FOR 6" BURNER QUIT WORKING

  • Customer: NANCY from LITTLETON CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
OK this is a glasstop Jenn Air cce3531B, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since i had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. THANKS YOU PARTSELECT

Oven door locked and was flashing code F4

  • Customer: Mary L. from Trinity TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible

  • Customer: Rob from Yakima WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Replace the oven Sensor

  • Customer: Michael from Exeter NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation

  • Customer: John from Ashland OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

Bake element caught on fire

  • Customer: Dan from TomRriver NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I got the run around about my HARWICK stove at several part stores. Like they all said the same thing (cant look it up just bring it down) So i did and then they would say, what's the model number. ERR! SO my wife found parts select on the web and they beat the three price quotes I got. First turn the power off to the stove!!! The repair was simple. Just remove the two screws on both side's and pull the element out but just enough for the wire's to show. Disconnect the two wire's and pull the element out. Reverse the processes but when wire's are reconnected squeeze terminals end gently to ensure a good connection. This is a great company to deal with, I will be using them again. Thanks and good luck!!!

Baking element burned out

  • Customer: Stephen from Pleasant Hill IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I watched the video on the web site and it worked like a dream. Two screws to take out - disconnect wires put back connecting wires and replace the screws again. Just like the video. Thanks

Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.

  • Customer: Judy from West Salem IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature

  • Customer: Trace from Ofallon MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Oven door hinges broken

  • Customer: Brian from Lakewood CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
With the back removed, replacing the lamp receptacle is straight-forward. Likewise, the door gasket is very easy. However, in order to replace the hinges, you have to remove the burner glass top (screws underneath the front lip), and inner and outer side panels. Also the supplied hinges mounting holes were not threaded so I had to use my own bolts, lock-washers and nuts in order to attach them. Total time, including a bit of cleaning, was 5 hours.

Racks were dark and dirty

  • Customer: Geraldine from Germantown NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

oven not heating to set temp. 100 degrees too cold

  • Customer: Robert from Funston GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal

  • Customer: Daniel from Katy TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle

  • Customer: sherri from elk horn IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
All Instructions for the A3878XRW
46-60 of 304