A25CS Maytag Washer - Instructions

Replacing both belts was very easy. The belts slipped off the pulleys with no tools required. It took less than ten minutes to change them including tilting the washer back for access. The only reason to take the front cover of the cabinet off was to check belt tension and vacuum out the interior.

I followed the directions given me from parts select. I used the instructional YouTube videos. Both gave me the courage to do this project myself. The 35 year old wash machine works perfect !

Because the washer was old, 27 years, I actually ordered a new machine but after doing so was able to get the old washer to pump out the water. It had overfilled and spilled water on the floor. The next time I ran the washer using "warm" setting the hot water inlet solenoid failure was evident. I checked voltage at the solenoid and it was getting power so figured I'd try ordering a $30 part. In a couple of days it showed up and after less than :30 minutes I had the washer running again. It would have taken less time but a screw stripped out and I had to locate a replacement. I'd definitely recommend PartSelect. Oh, we cancelled the replacement washer and figured the Maytag repairman could resume his slumber!

The fact that your part was assembled incorrectly made the job more difficult and required installing the part twice. Once after we received the part and once more after we had corrected the faulty assembly. When we received the part the air gap was upside down.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.

I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the location and design of the switch. I got it though.

First checked for clogs or loose/broken belt. Fixed loose belt and tested, not the problem. I then ordered the pump and hose that would not seal after uninstalling. Everything working fine. Very simple repair.

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.

I watched the online video that was supplied when I ordered the part and it made all the difference in a successful repair. Thank you for having such a complete solution!

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way

I watched the video and it was just a easy as the video stated. This part was stated as a common problem causing the water leak. I was doubtful after looking at the old part because there were no visible signs of wear, but decided to go along with the guidance and sure enough, it fixed the leak. It was a minor cost and an easy fix.

Remove screw on lower side of agiator, pullout agiator. Remove top washer clip and washer. Remove damaged seal and broken seal spring. Clean out debree and soak drum seal housing with WD40.Make sure shart will turn, iastall new spring seal and agiator.

Very easy as the water inlet valve is located on the back of the washer and it was a simple matter of shutting off the water, undoing water hoses, undoing water inlet valve which didn't even need to remove the back side of the washer and connecting the new part, water hoses and turning water back on. The hardest part was tipping the washer, my sits on top of the cold air return, and balancing on a milk crate. Very pleased with being able to do my own repair.

Follow the instructions on the various video's. They were all very helpful. Removed all parts (have a small bucket ready). Also, be sure to order all hardware for drain pump. It does not come with any, and depending on the age of your washer, you will need new screws.