A208 Maytag Washer - Instructions

My husband figured out what the problem was and I looked for the part. It was easy to find on your web-site, and the picture was spot on! I ordered it and had the part in 2 days. The repair took 15 minutes or less, and my washer is as good as new. Thank you PartSelect for being there when we needed. I will recommend this to everyone.

Repair proceeded as described by others, and is indeed very easy to do. My replacement of these parts was a bit of a gamble, since it has been very hard to identify exactly where the small leak I had was coming from. Happily, the new parts do not seem to leak as before, despite being nearly identical in appearance to the 25-year old parts being replaced. Is it possible that the old black rubber injector had lost some of its flexibility, or no longer aligned itself properly inside the clear plastic housing assembly when water was flowing? Another trouble spot is the point where the injector hose joins the water inlet valve. If you remove this hose while doing your repair, be sure to check for leaks there. I made sure the hose clamp fit exactly back in to the indentations it had made in this hose, and even wrapped a few turns of Teflon tape around the water inlet valve fitting before putting the injector hose back on. Hope this helps..

Removed 2 screws on front of washing machine to remove front panel. Tilted washer back and slipped off old belts and slipped the new ones on..they are on the bottom of washer...had to push on motor mount a little..but very easy..put the front cover back on...working fine so far

I found this website and it was the only reason I was able to fix the washer leak. I was about to go out and buy a new washer and dryer combo. Found the part after googling it and this website also had video on how to replace the washer seal kit. The drawings allowed me to see what the problem was and the video helped me know how to change the seal kit. I never would have known about the left hand threads on the tub nuts. I used a short punch to free nut instead of the spanner wrench which I didn't have. Otherwise repair went exactly as shown. I will always use this site to fix my appliances from now on.

Removed front panel, raised top, started washer and observed location of leakage in vicinity of injector valve/nozzle. Disconnected hoses (2 places} to remove existing injector valve and nozzle. Had to grind thru one of the hose clamp "rings" which had no screw to tighten/loosen it to remove it. Installed new injector valve and nozzle and reattached hoses using an existing hose clamp and one new hose clamp to replace original "ring" clamp. Refastened washer top using socket set and refastened front panel.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Watched the installation video on the website and used exactly the same technique. Belts came off easily as did the pump assembly. Installed the new pump and belts and adjusted the pump belt tension to 1/4 " when squeezed together. Replaced the front panel and moved washer back into position. The pump noise was gone and there were no leaks. Easy job.

searched on line for the part.you guys had a very informative video looked how simple it was i purchased the part i needed and the rest was history thanks you guys are great saved me around 140.00 bucks. for about 15 minutes worth of work

pulled out washer from the wall tilted back towards the wall. removed front panel by pulling it out at the bottom. .removed belts by spinning the pulley .similar to taking a bike chain off. cleaned all pulleys with a degreaser 409 etc. springs are under the motor. slide motor away from you. remove springs with needle nose pliers from the front. to install new springs hook them to the rear of the motor first. fish them under the motor then grab them with needle nose pliers and hook to the front of the bracket. you could also tie a fishing line to the front of the spring and pull it thru that way. install belts [very easy]. did not need plastic guides. i did not install

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Love these older machines... Easy simple and straightforward. Lay the product front up on a small 2 X 4. Remove front cover, (two phillips head screws near bottom). reach under hand roll off both belts,, check belt numbers to ensure old belt numbers with new belts. Rolled on new belts, checked tension, per enclosed note. Ajusted belt tension via the pump. replaced front cover and screws. Install unit, (be sure to level it) Time to Rock and roll.

Called an appliance service center. They said most likely the injector nozzle. The PartSelect web site confirmed so. I watched the 10 minute video. Pulled off front panel which was the second most difficult task. The clips at the top flew out. Opened top, verifed the nozzle injector (hose) was leaking. Ordered part and installed. Since the clips popped out, there did not seem to be a sure way for their fit, to secure the top of the front panel, to the machine. That was the most difficult part of the repair. Works great. My mother was going to buy a new machine and the solution was a $13 part.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

I followed the step by step instructions on the video and it worked to a (T). You guys are the best. Thank you for all your help. Sincerely Eddie .

I am not going to describe the repair. The video that Part Select has on their website is exactly how our repair went. Very simple. This is the second time we have used Part Select. They have saved us a lot of money on repairmen or new purchases. I would definitely use them in the future. The videos are so easy to follow anybody can make the repairs. Also, the delivery company not only misdelivered the part but, they damaged it. When I called Part Select about the part being damaged, they immediately sent out a new part without any questions. Why aren't all companies this awesome?!