A17CT Maytag Washer - Instructions

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

tilted the machine back 45 degress. took both belts off and replaced them with the 2 new ones. put some tension on the drive belt and put the machine back in place, did a test run and it worked great.

removed 2 screws holding on front panel,tilted machine back and remover belts checked stretch against new belts.stretch was minimal.removed 3 screws of pump from underneath machine.pump impeller was free slipping replaced pump installed new belts reattached front cover& started washing clothes again.less than 15 min to do everything

After watching the video the repairs were easy to do.Thank you for the videos.

Watch the video on how to open this model washer. Unplug the unit. Remove the front panel. remove the bolts so you can lift the top. Disconnect the bleach tube at the top. Lift the top and hold in place with a stick or broom handle. Locate the air gap unit on filler tube. Unscrew the hose clamp on the inlet side of the air gap. Disconnect the hose and pull out the rubber tube. Fold the edges of the rubber valve off the inner nozzle and remove. Install the nozzle into the new Rubber valve. Reverse process to finish.

I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.

After unpluging cord and disconnecting hoses, I layed the washer over on its front. I simply rolled both belts off their pulleys and installed the new ones. This was easier than I thought! I gave a turn or two on both sets of pulleys to make sure something wasn't preventing the pulleys from rotating properly and all seemed to move okay. After reconnecting everything and doing a test run, I discovered that the transmission was not moving as it should and the belt was still binding. Turned out the 25+ year old transmission finally gave up! I doubt if any new washer I buy will last half that long

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

I suspected the pump, so, once I removed it, it was obvious that the shaft from the pump pulley to the impeller was broken (the pulley turned, but the impeller was not turning).I ordered a genuine "Maytag" pump from Parts Select, even though it cost me twice as much as other pumps advertised on Amazon.com. Why fool around? While I was at it, I also ordered 2 new belts from Parts Select, even though the belts on the machine looked OK. But heck, the old belts were 26 years old! What a great machine this old Maytag! This is the first time in 26 years that it failed me...The only reason I looked at the Parts Select repair video was to know what tension to put on the pump belt...BTW, I ordered the parts on the weekend, and they were sitting on my front porch Tuesday, early morning. Impressive..

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

I tried to get an appointment with our local appliance repair company, but they cancelled and wouldn't reschedule at a convenient time, so I decided to do it myself. Determined that the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit was the needed part and ordered it here. Also had to order the specialty spanner wrench from another website. Parts were delivered in a timely manner. The online video was very helpful and the removal and replacement of the defective part went smoothly. The only problem with the actual repair was with removing the old tub seal gasket -- it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it free. The new parts went in with no problems. However, we have an older model than the one shown in the video -- it has the metal tub top cover with the rubber gasket and ring clamp. This cover is tricky to replace properly. It has to be at just the right height to avoid interference with the spinning inner tub (too low) or with the washer lid (too high). You also have to make sure that the rubber gasket it not twisted or crimped by the ring clamp. It took me three tries to get this just right. After that, everything worked fine and the leak is fixed.

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.