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The light socket cup could no longer hold the bracket that holds the light cover in place.
I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
After years of great service the bittom bake element went up like a sparkler in two locations. Looking back, the heating effeiciency had probably dropped off subtly over time too.
The repair was very easy and your video was extremely helpful. Especially regarding pulling the oven out and removing the back wiring cover to get to the spade terminals, rather than trying to do it all from inside the oven. Added bonus was that I got that pocket for the oven cleaned out like new! Eww! Pulling it out also gave me enough reach without having to remove the oven door (didn't realize you cold do that). Best part though was your mention that GE often DROPPED the zeros in their parts numbers. Couldn't locate the part on any website until yours noted this. so.. you got the sale. Went back to GE's website, located it and found your quality part was also less expensive! 11 minutes start to finish, quick shipping and works great! I'll be back! Thank you!
Having done this replacement before, it was very easy. My advice to anyone having a similar case is to approach the connections from the back of the stove by removing the center back panel for easy access to the connection terminals.
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL, OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER, UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
