The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. . . ) It was like drinking juice
Cut off power to the cook top and confirm that power is actually off. In my case, this involved turning off a cicuit breaker. Remove all burner control knobs by pulling straight up. Lift off all grates, burner caps and burner heads. Remove two phillips head screws from each burner bowl. Pry each burner bowl up and unhook the ignitor wire. I labeled the wires to make sure I got them hooked back up right. Remove the four burner bowls by lifting them off. Make sure you remember where each goes so you can reinstall them in the right places. Pry up the glass cooktop and lift it off. I took the cooktop ouside and gave it a good cleaning. This plus cleaning around the cooktop and cleaning the burner bowls is what took most the time. Lift the defective switch off and disconnect the two wires. Align the flat in the new switch to the off position. Reconnect the wires and install the new switch on the valve stem. Reinstall the cook top. Reinstall the burner bowls making sure to reconnect the ignitor wires. Reinstall the burner heads, burner caps, grates and knobs. Turn the power back on and make sure everything works correctly.
Began by removing the front panel where the range handles are located. There were 7 screws located under the panel which required opening of the oven hood. All of this removal was a waste of time, because the range top was on hindges. The only thing holding ithe range top down was the accumulated grease and oil along the edges. I used a screwdriver to sperate the range panel. There were side supports to hold the the top up, like a car hood support. Replacing the electrode was a snap after that. Overall, it took less than 30 mins but it would have taken less than 10 if I hadn't removed the front panel.
Remove grates,pans and disk. Remove allen screws at each burner. Take a flat blade screwdriver and press in on tabs on each side of front of stove to depress keepers and lift top up. Remove wire, and keeper on bottom of electrode. Reverse for install.
Repair was easy once I got the correct part. When the parts were listed as small and medium large I thought they were talking the diameter of the bowl. It turns out they are talking about the center hole in the bowl. So I needed one small and three large. Everything great now.....stove looks great and clean.
Rremoved the back cover, changed the wires from one ignighter to the other, removed the old ignighter, and snapped in the new one, put four screws back on cover, and pushed stove back into place, turned on all burners several times to make shure eveything worked!!!
i removed the cover over hole that holds the orifice used a 7mm nut driver with butyl rubber tape stuffed inside nut driver, this stuff is sticky and holds orifice in place while positioning over hole.total time about 3 minutes. they worked perfectly.
I located the spark module at back of top panel and I switched the wires of one of the other burners to the burner that wasn't lighting. By doing that I found that part of the module wasn't operating properly.
Burner Spark Module burned out needed a replacement
My husband did the repair so it was very easy for me, as well as for him, he found the bad part from your parts diagram which was a great help, he changed it out in no time and so we were both very Happy. Thank you for your help. Nancy & David
