86058 (P7812530W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Turned off power to Refrigerator.
1)Removed broken light switch, using a screwdriver, to gently pry it out. Then unlugged the switch from the connector. I used long nosed pliers to gently pull out the connector from inside the frig, so I could easily plug in the new light switch. I then pressed the new light switch back in place.
2) Remove light cover. I then unclipped the socket which holds the light bulb, I gently pulled it out and unplugged it from the two wires. I then attached the two wires onto the new light socket and clipped it back in place. Bingo done with both items practically no time!

I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

All I had to do was unwrap the replacement bins and place them in the notches in the door. It took all of 10 seconds to complete. I am very pleased. I thought it would be almost impossible to replace these bins on an 18-year old regrigerator.

removed inside door panels by removing multiple
screws- 20-30 screws which hold each panel and gasket together to the door. then remove old gasket and put new gasket in place... align new gasket to seat on plastic ridge of inside door panel.. pay special attention to the corners so they are aligned properly without any 'bulges'. then screw each panel back on to the door using the original screws removed. best done with the help of a friend to hold and align the panel while you attach each screw. also after installation with door closed - use a hairdryer to soften up the gasket and allow it to conform to the new space and door application. total time is approx 1 hour per door... i probably saved well over $100 in labor by doing this myself-thankyou part select.com for having my parts... i will visit you again once something breaks or wears out again !

Had to remove screws inside back of freezer panel, took off old thermostat. This one had a different plug on the end that wasn't compatible, so had to cut that off and wire it to the old plug end. Piece of cake. Put back panel back on and back in business. Hardest thing was getting the screws out!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

I began by loosening the door gaskets by backing off the screws about 2 turns with the nut driver. The gaskets pulled off easily. I then heated the new gaskets in the clothes dryer on med heat for about 5 mins. I attempted to reinstall the new gaskets and found this more difficult than it needed to be. My solution was to simply remove both doors, remove all the screws and pull the door liners. Then I was able to easily install the gaskets, reinstall the liners and rehang the doors. As a result of pulling the inner liners was I discovered that 'Ice' had developed in the insulation (fiberglass) in the freezer door. I used a heat gun on low to melt the ice and then ran the insulation through the dryer to fully dry it before reinstallation. These added steps increased the total time for the repair but were well worth it in my opinion.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

I removed the panel in the back of the freezer and found the evaporator to be a complete block of ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. Following advice from the Partselect web site, I measured the resistance through the defrost heater. It was about 30 ohms, so I decided that it was OK. Next, I advanced the defrost timer manually with the compressor on until it turned off. The defrost heater did not operate. I concluded that the problem was the defrost thermostat. After installing it, the freezer worked properly.

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!