7MMGP0070VM0 Dryer - Instructions

After running the unit for a minute or so I removed the back of the dryer. Unable to locate the problem from this vantage point, I then removed the bottom kick plate. Using a small flash light, and turning the drum by hand I discovered that one of the support rollers had burned out the bearings. I went to this web site to see if I could still get parts for the unit. I found not only the part, but a full repair kit. Knowing all the parts would need to be replaced at some point, and that Mom could not afford a new unit I replaced everything. The parts did truly arrive in one day when they arrived I went back to your web site. I had seen instructional videos while looking for the repair parts. After watching the video I removed the dryer drum, removed the parts to be replaced (2 drum support rollers the belt tension roller, and belt) I replaced old with new cleaned entire unit reassembled and it is working like a champ thank you very much for all the parts, and info

I was very pleased with the shipping speed, the belt arrived in less than 24 hours! The installation was very easy and if you need help the video on the belt info page should be helpful.

I followed the video instruction found on www.partselect.com. I removed 2 screws from the exhaust filter area. Then used a putty knife and a screwdriver to pop the top off its 2 front (hidden) plastic snaps (see video). Then disconnected the switch and unscrewed it. I replaced it with the new one and closed the unit. This was the easiest repair ever. The video instructions were perfect and showed all the needed tricks. It took 5 minutes (exactly). The only tricky part was unsnapping the electrical connection to the broken switch (take an extra 10 seconds to avoid breaking the connector). Probably saved me between $150 (repair man in our area) and $550 (replacement unit). I love this site. It help me diagnose the problem, identify the defective part, provided a diagram & installation video, and sold the part. Shipping was lightning fast, the part arrived in 36 hours. Thank you Part Select.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

Parts in the maintenance kit (other than belt) did not fit this old dryer. Top up and front off (door did not have to be removed) drum removed without any problems, pulley in back of dryer. Lots of lint removed, this dryer, must be at least 25 year old, runs great!!!

I had to take the top loose and raise it up. There are two screws in exhaust vent you have to take out then you can raise the top. When you raise the top you will have to take the front loose and open it up enough to take the drum out. Go to the back and take the lower cover off and take the screws holding the exhaust vent out so the vent will come out the top. When you take the vent out you will see a fan on the end of the motor shaft. The fan is threaded on the shaft and it is left handed threads. As you face the fan you will have to turn the fan to the right to get if off. You will need someone to hold a back up on the motor shaft inside the dryer to keep it from turning. Take the motor out then get the new motor and wire it according to instructions. Install the motor on the motor mount, put fan on then put everything back in reverse order that you took it apart. The hardest part for me was putting the clips on the motor when I put it back together. Hope this helps you.

I followed the instructions shown on the video. I am sharing this site with my friends. Thank you!

I'm a great grandmother. When I realized that the dryer had a problem I went online to find the part. I found it on your site - so easy to find there. I told my husband that I could pay a repairman $75 for a house call and, probably, $25-$40 for the part and labor or I could order from you and have it working in 30 minutes. He took the latter choice. It was a good one! It cost me less than $25 for the part and labor and 13 minutes to have it working like new. We are both pleased with the result. The repair was so easy. I just watched the video on the site and followed it step-by-step. I will recommend your site to all my friends and my 2 sons who are just as handy! Thanks so much.

You pop the top of the dryer. Remove to hex screws which allow you to remove the front panel. Next you pull the drum off, snack the belt around the drum, motor and tension pulley and reverse the steps. The hardest part is getting the drum back in place without knocking the belt off the motor.

My old Kenmore dryer would not start. I used this website to troubleshoot the issue. It gave me a few suggestions which I tried in order of most common to least. I first just made sure the breaker was not blown. I used the multimeter on the electric plug to make sure it had power. I then used my multimeter to check the dryer door switch for continuity. It was good. I then checked the Thermal Fuse (found on the exhaust duct) for continuity. It was good. I was getting down to the "This rarely breaks" situation. I then tor apart the upper switch panel and pulled out the Push-to-Start switch to check for continuity. It had three connectors but I found a website that told me which ones to test. Continuity was not happening when the lever was pushed so I figured I had the issue. Ordered from PartSelect.com. Part arrived in 4 days. Fixed in 5 min. Woo Hoo. btw, I am not a repair-person, just someone who can follow instructions.

I removed the front lower panel and could access the parts easily. This model of dryer was a little tricky as to what needed to be removed to access the parts. It was easy to take off the flame sensor and the therminal gas valve and replace. I watched your video on changing these parts but it didn't help much as the model in your video was newer and the parts were not in the same location on my dryer. the top on my dryer could not be popped up it was held by screws accessed by working from the bottom panels up. It turned out I only needed to take off the bottom kick panel to replace the parts it needed. The dryer works fine and the information,you provided on your website about what parts cause this problem most of the time on this dryer helped me to order the correct parts.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

IMPORTANT: Before you begin the repair, move the dryer to gain access to the power cord and disconnect it. 1. Remove lint screen from top of dryer. 2. Remove the two screws exposed by removing the lint screen. 3. Insert slotted (flat) screwdriver from front of dryer into separation between top and each side and use it to pry the top away from each side clamp. 4. The top will then lift up like the hood of a car. With the "hood" up, you can see the switch that is engaged when the dryer door is closed. It'll look just like the one you bought. 5. Disconnect the switch. You may need a couple of small flat screwdrivers to separate the switch from the wiring. This was the hard part for me. 6. Open the dryer door and use a medium Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws that hold the switch in place. 7. Fit the new switch into the bracket on the door and use the old screws to tighten it down. 8. Plug the new switch in to the wiring. 9. Close the "hood." 10. Snap the two sides of the top of the dryer into place. 11. Replace the two screws hat hold the top of the dryer to the vent (don't over-tighten.) 12. Replace dryer vent. 13. Plug in the dryer. 14. Move it back in lace. 15. That's all, folks!

Found a DIY video clip on YouTube...Ordered the parts...I only needed a replacement belt but PartSelect had an upgrade kit that included not only the belt and rear drum support wheels, but also the tensioner arm with a WHEEL instead of just the flat metal belt guide ( which I believe lead to the belt wearing out in the first place) All the parts fit perfectly and now it's better than new.

First, I replaced the male end which was just two screws and simple replacement of pushing the fastener into the door frame. When finished I noticed the female end was damaged as well. Glad the female part came as well. This required taken off the front trim around the door (four screws - 2 each side) and then the door. The installing of the female end was easy with a little push. The damaged female end was already hanging out so easy to grab and remove. Otherwise I would have had to remove the front panel. Note You need to put the door trim back on before reattaching the door.