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Cracked drain tube.
Removed old tube and replaced with new version. Replacement slightly different than original since the new part included a feature that appears to prevent the problem. New part still fit and is operating well so far.
Washer wouldn't start at times unless the lid was gently "slammed" shut.
First unplug the washing machine. Then used a putty knife pushed under the endcap area to release the clips holding the top console down, then lifted the front of the console and tipped it back. Held it in that position with a short piece of wood.
The lid switch was visible right there on the left. Then unplugged the switch, removed the metal screw holding the ground wire, pressed the locking tab on the switch, lifted the washer lid about 3 or 4 inches, and removed the switch. Installation was the reverse procedure. Total time about 10 to 15 minutes.
Washer was leaking.. determined it was center gasket
Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Washer vibrates excessively on spin cycle
I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.
First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!
removed two phillips screws from control panel. lifted panel to reveal two clips on both sides of machine. used flathead screwdriver to remove clips. tilted whole body up and away. pushed drum towards first spring and removed it . installation was reverse of procedure. did not fix it because basket had rusted at shaft bottom under agitator and put basket out of balance.
Retainer clip for the pump missing, caused pump to fail
Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min. The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.
I first took the 2 screws out and disconnected the wires, I got my parts ordered and when they came in I put it back together then plugged th wires back in. I really could not believe that I could do something of this nature but when I started it was easy. My boyfriend wanted to take the washer to a repair shop, but I said first I will take a look and see if it will be worth saving. Otherwise I will junk it. It cost me with shipping costs 41.00 I am very proud of my self. But I read other peoples experience on fixing the same problem that I had so I gave it a try. I will not hesitate to do other jobs myself. Doreen Finlaw
Water level switch was continuously satisfied, washer would not fill, and would go into agitation immediately.
Removed the screws holding the control panel onto the washer. Removed the switch knob and then the switch (required unlocking a tab and then rotating the switch to remove). Unplugged the wiring connector and the water sensing tube. Replaced the switch in the reverse order and remounted the control panel. Test run proved the washer was working again.
Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!
Tub not spinning or agitating, but could hear motor working.
Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.
researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.
Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.
I pulled the hose off and notice their was a part # and I went online and type the part # and showed the part and cost. I order it and receive it within 3days. when the part arrive I replace the hose in minutes. If I can do so can you its that easy.