7GU3600XTSY0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I noticed the top spinner in the top tray. It wouldn't stay when I tried to reattach it. I searched around the Internet using the model number of my dishwasher. I ordered the part which arrived in two days. I removed the top tray and gently pried the piece where the spinner attaches away, took the old pin out, snuck the new pin in there and snapped the spinner in. The problem was that the nipple on the pin was worn away. The spinner was fine but I didn't see an option to just buy the pin. The I st ructions I read said to dismantle the whole works, but I sneaked it in without doing any harm. I hope. Dishwasher works fine.

Received the new rinse aid cap and put it in. Fit perfectly!Thanks.

snapped on new wheel done

Pin for the top spinner broke off. Watched the video on the website and went to fix dishwasher. Found out that I only needed to remove baskets, cover bottom with a towel so screws didn't fall into unreachable areas, then removed one screw on the top. Removed broken pin and installed new spinner and pin. Less than five minutes from a woman who's never done this before. Felt like a pro!! Your easy to use website to find parts and repair video made it possible. Thanks a million!!!

Pulled dishwasher out, laid it down on its back. that made eaiser to get to the motor. Pulled the motor off then put the new motor on.

Just followed the video. Seemed simple enough but the bolt location was different so had to watch the video again paying specific attention to the part where he tells you to use the old bolts to replace the new pulley system. The new pulley system already has a bolt in the top pulley. You will need to old bolt through the bottom pulley. Works great - for now.

I thought it was the control board, but when I replaced it, the problem was not fixed. So I bought the control panel after some additional internet searching on the problem. This was ordered on another site as I couldn't tell on this site what model number went with stainless. It took less time to replace the control panel as I had the earlier experience. Once replace, everything went back to normal operation.

Remove kick panel, shut the water off, loosen/remove the water supply line, remove screws securing cabinet into counter, slide out, replace the door balances and springs on both sides, re assemle as removed, done deal! Door closes better than when it was new!

fOLLOW THE VIDEO AND THE REPAIR GOES VERY WELL. You have a fantastic web site to diagnose the problem and fix it.

Unscrewed the old and attached AND SCREWED IN THE NEW.

After watching the DIY video, I purchased the Door Balance Link Kit and did the repair myself. It went almost exactly as the video explained. The only problem was that I had a new tile floor installed AFTER the dishwasher (DW) was installed. First, I removed the kick-plate (the metal "seal" plate and pad on the bottom), the 2 Mounting Bracket Screws from under the counter, and turned off the hot water (shut-off valve located under the sink). I had to tilt the DW forward while lifting it over the 1/4-3/8" difference in floor height in order to slide it out from the cabinet. (This should normally not be an issue.) Once out, I removed the screw from the (link) mount, rotated the mount (bottom half towards the front of the DW) removing it, and unhooked the link from the spring (attached to the frame at the rear). I fed the new link through the new mount before attaching the mount to the DW. Next, I gently stretched the spring forward attaching the link to it. I then changed the mount and link on other side. The DW was then pushed back into the cabinet, taking care to keep the insulation in place and not kink or bend any hoses or wires behind it. The Mounting Bracket Screws and kick-plate were then reattached and the water turned back on. The entire operation took less than 30 minutes and probably saved me $150-$200 in service call charges.

Went to part select and found the part. Watched the repair video. Ordered the part. Came 2 days later. Very fast service!! Started the repair but found the dw would not just slide out as in the video. Took bottom panel off and found copper supply tube was connected and coming up from the basement below. Disconnected the supply line and replaced both wheel assemblies. Slid dw back in. Then the fun started! Went to thread the compression nut onto the connection and it would not thread. After about 7 tries, it cross-threaded. Called my friendly plumber. After one hour, he fixed it and all was well. Plumber told me that about 1 out of 3 repairs result in cross threading. There is a lesson here. If it looks too simple, it probably is very difficult.

turned off water supply, removed front lower cover, disconnected main water feed, removed retaining screw, removed fill valve assembly, disconnected electrical connector, removed flex line from valve to dishwasher. Reverse order for installation of new valve

Very easy fix; simply opened the door and took out the dozen or so screws holding the door cover on. From there, just (carefully) unplug the dispenser from the wiring harness, remove the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place, and reverse the process to install the new one.

I replaced both brackets and cords. the hardest problem was attaching spring to frame housing of dishwasher since I didn't want to pull dw completely out of cabinet area because of water copper line connection and power connection. I had to use grip plyers to hold spring as I streached spring to connect to cable.