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replacing slide track to meat drawer shelf
The slides fit into the slots of the self metal, but couldn't be pushed forward to lock into place! At first I tried to put the slider in by hand, but it wouldn't snap in place no matter how hard I tried. A friend also tried to get the slider into the slots and push forward to lock in place in the metal part of the shelf. No go! It took a while, but I figured if I used a hammer to tap the slider into place that might work. It did. It would have been helpful to have some instructions on inserting the slider, such as "use a hammer tap the slider so it locks the slider into place". You just can't do it by hand! Other than that, it went really well and replacement then only took 1 minute. . .instead of the 30 minutes it took to try to lock the sliders.
I removed the ice bucket,the gear is located under the ice bucket and engages when ice bucket sits on it and turns the tray for ice to fall in the shute,2 screws to remove and the gear comes off and I put the new one on and put the screws back,very easy to do, total time 5 minutes,repair man wanted to charge $114 for the part and $100 for labor,I did it all for $25 thru this site,I love this site,it gsaved me alot of money,thanks partselect.,
The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.
Refrigerator door fails to close on its own like it is designed to.
The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.
The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.
I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank
removed old valve after finding out it leaked really bad. Got on line ordered new valve and it arrived in one day. great service from you guys. there was a little difference in the valves, push in line fitting on the new valve, screw in fittings on the old one. took less than 20 minutes to install and works great, thanks
Removed six screws from cover in the back of the freezer. Removed old fan . Removed power wires from old motor. Unclipped old motor from the mounting bracket. Replaced old motor and reversed the rest of the parts. Done
At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.
It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.
Ice dispenser freezing up, dispenser door not closing completely.
First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.
Water filter end broke off so I could not get out of housing.
Removed 2 screws holding housing to frame. Pulled housing out 10 inches. Removed water lines. Attached water lines to new housing. Pushed back into place. Secured to frame with 2 screws. Put in new filter. DONE!
Refrigerator not cooling, water dripping from doors
Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes. After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a simular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.
