Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...
killed the 50 amp power. removed 3 screws from above oven door slid out cook top, dropped brace holding 2 front burners. The connector corroded off had to look for a high heat connector to connect to the element, after that just screwed everything back together.
TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE
i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.
All of a sudden, one element in our glasstop range would not light and heat up. My wife and I were not sure what to do. Looked it up on the internet, found that you can do it yourself as others desribed the process of accessing the elements below. We decided to do that. It takes two people as one is holding up the glass because it opens like a car hood. While we diagnosed it was not a wiring issue (found a burnt wire, rewired the burnt wires (after mending the non burnt portions) to another element. The element that was not working before still did not turn on. Decided to purchase an element. While many online places sell elements, PartSelect actually allowed searching by brand with exploded views of the range to select the exact parts. This lessened the worry of purchasing a wrong element. When the part came (almost one day later), the repair was less than five minutes. Thank you PartSelect. I feel I saved a lot of money and aggravation.
Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.
Removed the broken door handle with a screwdriver, replaced the new door handle with a screwdriver. Took less than a couple of minutes to make the repair.
I went all the way around the unit and removed screws holding top of unit in place. Removed knobs holding front panel in place. Remove control panel. top should come off. Remove screws attaching element top and metal frame. Undo bracket and remove element. Disconnect wires. Remember where they were attached. Replace element and reverse steps.
Disconnected power. Removed hold down fasteners for stove top. Fortunately, I did not flue down or use the double back tape to secure stovetop to counter. If this adhesive were used, it is possible I would have had great difficulty in removing range. I did not disconnect the wiring, but turned the range top over to access the cover. I removed the cover and easily removed the failed burner and installed the new ones. I had to pull 4 wires from the terminal strip and reattach them. The hold down strap for the burner was reinstalled. Range top turned back over and fastened down. Back in service.