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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.
First, remove the warming drawer. This allows access to the igniter's plug. Unplug the igniter. The rest of the job is performed within the oven. Remove the bottom (1/4 inch socket). Then remove the next, v shaped piece. The igniter is bolted to the aerator. Remove bolts, and it pulls right off. Reverse these to install new igniter.
oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
Stove pilot not clicking on any burner, oven works fine
Unplug the range. Remove screw to Take of the back panel on upper right corner. Unclip the old spark module, unplug the wires with the needle nose pliers and plug them into the new spark module same as the old module. Clip it on. Replace the back panel.
Oven ignitor is on the bottom gas unit. Ignitor is in oven and plug is in warmer oven on left wall at very back of warmer oven. It has duel function to light both upper and lower gas burners (in oven). Wires of new plug that I received were shorter than existing wires and would not reach the plug from ignitors center mount location to plug at far back of warming unit on left wall. Even if the wires would have been long enough, I couldn't figure out how to "release" the existing plug. Easy solution: Cut old wires at junction of old ignitor (leaving wires as long as possible). Cut new wired as close to new male plug as possible (leaving wires as long as possible on new ignitor). Strip ends of old and new wires and wire nut with porcelin wire nuts (hardest part of job was locating porcelin wire nuts)! After placing wires out of the way of burner and ignitor, reassemble stove parts. AVOID touching new element as oil from hands will decrease the life of the element. Good Luck..
Tore the oven apart and replaced the igniter, then put the oven back together. Perhaps if Frigidaire manufactured an appliance that lasted longer than three years this wouldn't have been necessary. This is the second Frigidaire range that only lasted three years. Believe, the next stove we buy will definitely not be a Fridgidaire!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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OVEN WOULD NOT HEAT UP OVER 100 DEGREES
I "You Tubed" disassembly and commenced by disconnecting electric power. Removed door via You Tube instruction, removed back panels of unit, and replaced the oven temp probe. Easy Peasy. Then removed bottom of oven, next level above the burner and started to remove the igniter. One nut refused to be removed so I removed the burner and cut the nut and drilled it out. I reinstalled the new igniter with a metal screw from the rear panel and reinstalled the burner. Through the tiny hatchway I reconnected the new igniter and reassembled the oven to test. Just fine heated to 350 in 7 minutes. Awesome. Then, I called my brother, Pat, to give his imprimatur to the hillbilly nut switch. He said ok, I am done.
To any reading this, I would order the igniter and the burner at the same time. That tough nut cost my one extra hour.
Our oven igniter went 6 months after we bought the appliance.
I ordered the replacement igniter for the oven portion of the unit from Part select. It shipped very quickly. Upon receiving the igniter it was time to get to work. It took roughly 10 mins to replace and we were back up and running.