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Oven wasn't heating properly for a few months and then stopped altogether
The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
The bolts holding the readburner were rusted and broke
The range top had to be taken off along with the front panel to get access to the place the burner pipe connects. It took more time to unassemble and assemble the range than repacing the burner. The only issue was that the burner was sent without the bolts that will hold it in place so I had to go to local hardware store to get appropriate bolts.
First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.
After looking over the installation instructions I was confident that I could perform this on my own, However, changing the burner orifices was a bit tricky. Getting the original ones out worked well, they stayed in the nut driver when it was lifted. One of the new ones fell out when inserting it. Thankfully it fell all the way down and I could retrieve it. A small piece of tape was needed to keep it in the driver. The rest of the install went per instructions.
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
It went easy, I ordered the part from another vendor, received it in 3 days and it only took about 20 minutes to install. I do not recommend ordering from PartSelect!
Oven would not get up or stay up to selected temperature
Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)
replaced temp probe per your suggestion. No improvement! checked both heating elements with ohm meter. OK Next suggestion was replace circuit boards. Bought new range for less than cost of 2 oven/range control boards.