Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
After installing the part I found that the ice maker was still not working. I removed the ice maker and found the gears weren't line up.
Took old part off and as I removed one hose I put that hose in the corresponding color hole. Then screwed the part on the refrigerator. Water was coming out of the water dispenser fast, but no ice. So I had to continue troubleshooting the ice maker.
I screwed the old one out and replaced it with the new one. A no-brainer. The thing that was so amazing was that I ordered the filter on the intrnet and it arrived the very next day!!! I was very surprised and pleased with the very quick shipping!!!
I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.
Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.
Replaces door switches - removed screw from door hinge cover, lifted cover and removed switch. Plugged in new switch and reversed process. Removed screws from light bracket. Attached new frame to slots in roof and used screws to attach. Clipped on light cover.
door mounted cold water tank was leaking at seam of polyethylene tank.
The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.
the lights melted the lamp case and cover. I determined it was the switch ,but there was 2 of them . I replaced both . I used a screw driver to pry the covers off the switches which are on the top of the unit .Then I press the tabs on the switch and pulled it out. Slip the wire connect off. slip the wire connect on new switch press it in till the tabs snap in ,put covers back on. the lamp base and cover had two screws holding them, pull the screws slip the old melted base and cover. snap the new base and cover in and put the screws in done!
