686AM-CKSV Admiral Range - Instructions

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

Before I give procedure steps, please note the following observations that I had.
a)If AC power is plugged in and an electrical terminal touches the frame, the resulting arc may require that you reset the GFCI or the circuit breaker.
b)The clock failed to run until it was properly mounted (including the back cover in place).
c)Movement of wires can cause them to work loose at EITHER end of the wire.
d)Attempting to operate the clock, Start and Stop knobs may extremely difficult or otherwise ineffective unless it is properly mounted. Fully depressing these knobs / shafts is difficult.

The numbered steps below are how I would do it correctly based on what i learned.
1)I unplugged gas range power cord.
2)Re-positioned range to access the back without damaging the flexible gas supply line.
3)Removed the rear cover (#2 Philips) behind the timer.
4)Verified no voltages present
5)Judged that the front cover glass needed removal - removed timer knobs and front glass cover
6)Removed existing clock timer by using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver to depress the rear of each clip and pushing the time our the front. Old part has damaged gears and one axle end out of position.
7)Fed old timer back through the opening to the rear to assist with transfer of wires.
8)With the assistance of a helper, transferred the wires one at a time from the old to the new timer.
9)Fed new timer back through the opening to the front; aligned and snapped into place.
10)Replaced front glass and knobs.
11)Plugged in AC cord (first did inspection for snug connections and potential shorts).
12)Tested buzzer feature of the timer. Unexpected that the buzzer was intermittent.
13)Unplugged power cord. Found & tightened loose connection - not at timer but other end of one of the timer wires at the chassis connection strip.
14)Reinstalled the metal back cover & plugged in the AC cord.
15)Set the timer start and stop times to one hour before present time. (Knobs need to be depressed.)
16)Set clock to present time by depressing the knob IN and rotating it clockwise to the correct time. As clock is manually advanced to the timer start and stop times, verified that each knob popped out. The hand on the clock for the timer moves also, but when you release the knob pressure, the knob pops out and then you set the timer past the buzzing to zero.
18)I put the oven through a self-cleaning cycle. This uses the new timer; starts when the START button pups out and stops when the STOP button pops out. Of course there are other controls you need to manipulate for the self-cleaning cycle i.e. CLEAN settings and the door lock.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.

I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt away about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.

Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.

I pulled out the gas range, unplugged the unit from the outlet. Unscrewed about two panels, one is the black cardboard panel located on top, then the aluminum main panel.

Located the spark module, unscrewed the unit from resting plate. Did not change the plate, although the new unit came with a new one, but it doesn't fit. So I just rested the new one on the old plate.

Pulled each wire slowly out and inserted it onto the new spark module.

Screwed in all the panels back and returned the stove to its proper place.

The range now works as well as the oven, but my broiler still does not light up.

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.

TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN

I removed all four burners and the ignighter wires. then I removed all the screws holding the burnner yokes to the top of the stove. removed the top of the stove and replaced the new fetting. Replaced everything and fired it up. All went well.
Most impressed with the PartSlect web site. the ease of navigaation and the blow up that inabled me to find the part and part number. Ordering was easy and delevery was quick
Thank You.
Kareem.

The ignitor is held on by two screws which were rusted in place. When I tried to remove them, the screws became stripped and had to be cut off.

Once the part was free, the rest of the repair went quickly . At that point:
- Pull the element leads enough to get to the plastic connector
- Disconnect the old part
- Connect the new part
- Re-attach to the bracket with new screws.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

don't know, my husband had it going in minutes. But I would like to say that I have ordered parts for this stove and other appliances over the years and the service is great, the parts are correct and its an easy, user friendly web site to order the parts.

The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...