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Oven Light Would Not Work, Old Bulb Broken
Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.
The upper broiler element had burnt and broken into.
I must compliment PartSelect on their quick responce and delivery of the item ordered. It arrived a day after I had ordered it. Trust me, the $40.00 I spent on the item was way cheaper than having a repair service fix it or having the entire oven replaced. I would highly recomend anyone to utilize PartSelect.
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
Removed 3 screws on bottom edge of door,2 screws on top edge of door. Outside of door comes off. Then use a 1/4 nut driver and remove glass window supports until you get to the inner door glass. Reverse to assemble. Gasket was okey.
Take the time to pull off the door from the hinge; which is to simply pull it up to release with the door open approx. 4 inches. Have a Philips head screwdriver and a nut driver set available. Keep the screws grouped and the take it apart in the logical sequence. It took about 30 minutes total to complete the job. But then again, it was a woman who did it!
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
Lots of screws but if you have the proper sized nut driver it goes quite easily. Take time to see how the inner glass is mounted to the oven door. There are also screws on the bottom of the door that you need to remove to get the inner panel off. The door itself can stay on the hinges
First I removed the bottom oven drawer from the stove. Then I removed all the screws from the outer oven door. Then I removed the screws from the inter door panel and needed assistance to remove the first glass panel and frame. Then I removed the second panel of glass and frame. Then I removed the third panel of glass that was broken. The gasket was the last part to be removed. Getting the new gasket to stay put while putting the new glass panel next to it was the hard part. I needed assistance to place the glass against the gasket and then place the frame back on this panel. Once this mission was accomplished. It was a matter of getting the next glass panel put back in the frame. and replacing the inter door panel and putting the screws back in. Then I put the third glass panel and screws back in. Once this was accomplished , I put the outer door back and put the screens back in the outer door.
SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.
The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.
To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).
Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.
