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Lower washer arm came loose- dispenser door would not stay closed
Replaced the lower washer arm retaining nut,bearing ring.and seal in about 3 min.The retaining nut had broken off inside - make sure to remove the broken piece-I used needle nose pliers. The dispenser took about 35 mins. Removed all the screws around the inside of the door and removed panel.Removed screws holding the dispenser and replaced.I took time to give the dishwasher a good cleaning(inside edge). Now my wife is happy.
Plastic parts on this Kitchenaid dishwasher suffer repeat wear problems from heat and chemical detergents. The retainer nut on the bottom wash arm split horizontally int the thread area, and during operation, the wash arm would rise up and hit the bottom of the lower basket so there was a worn groove in the wing on top of the nut and the dishes weren't getting very clean. Simple replacement, just screw the nut down. Also decided to replace the bearing ring right under the wash arm because it was getting pasted with white crust-like material from hard water and chemical detergent residues. I've dealt with PartSelect twice now, and they are fast and efficient. The online parts breakdowns are easy to follow.
Poor washing - water not coming out of jets at full power
Bottom wash arm bearing and seal were severely worn and leaking. Replaced in about one minute with new parts from PartSelect.com, and took the opportunity to clean out the arm -- stringy, fibrous matter was clogging two jets.
Top arm horizontal rubber supply tube was disintegrating and leaked. Replace with Spray Arm Kit -- this took maybe two minutes!
Lastly, two to of the upper right-rear folding rack tine clips were broken -- replacement was difficult as the old, broken clips were very stiff and came off only after much physical persuasion! New clips were installed easitly -- in a "snap". Time ~ 5 minutes.
Best of all, the new parts were delivered to my home within 36 hours of my internet order. I thought the prices were fair, too. Thanks.
First remove front panel of dishwasher. Held on by 2 screws on bottom of panel. Remove the electrical connections from the dispenser. Remove the six screws on the dispenser and remove dispenser. Reverse steps to install new dispenser. Also remove rinse aid sensor from old dispenser and install in the new dispenser.
unscrewed sprayarm, removed bearing and seal, used PartSelect pic and description schematic to identify part numbers then placed order. Parts arrived in two or three days.
Removed upper basket and installed the arm. New snap in didn't require phillips screwdriver as old one and new support had split to insert. Replacing upper spray spinner dropped screw down around pump. This caused misery unassembling lower covers to receive Stainless Steel, so magnet won't help ended up with mirror and hemistat to reach through large screen figures. So make sure to put towel or something in the bottom to catch parts.
My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
Removed the rest of the broken retainer plug. Part number was on the top of the plug. Went to Partselect.com looked up the part and ordered it. The right part (important) arrived in a few days. I put the arm back in place, screwed in the new retainer plug and we were back in business. Cost of part about $5.00. Price of not having to share in cleaning the dishes, priceless. Any future problems with any of my appliances, this is the first place I'll look for the needed part.
The original, detachable hose portion developed a hole and needed replacement
Pretty simple. Hardest part was working the end clips of the slide to remove top rack. You simply need to squeeze the plastic clip in to slide it out. Once the top rack is out, it was an obvious philips head screw removal and new part replacement.
Original 3 piece Middle Wash Arm Tube assembly fell off during cycle, landing on drying heat element. On e part of assembly remained in place. It melted to state of non-usable.
I was hesitant at buying the Matag made replacement, especially since it was one piece as compared to my 10-year old 3 piece assembly, and my dishwasher is KitchenAid. Ordered on a Sunday afternoon, had in hand Tuesday same week, one phillips head screwdriver to remove/replace. Everyone smiling! Did not need to remove upper rack. Simply unscrewed 1 screw, put on new one-piece arm, replaced with same screw. 15 minutes! Good price/delivery.
This was my third attempt at fixing the problem. First I tried the bushing under the lower spray arm. This worked for me a few years ago but not this time. I then replaced the door gasket with no luck. I just discovered another bushing that has worn paper thin between the lower spray arm and the nut that holds it. I ordered it and hopefully that will do the trick. I read that if the spray arm wobbles it creates waves in the tub that slop over the edge.
Tube to the spray arm fell off and melted on the element
Removed one screw to get the spray arm off the rack, one other screw to disassembly the spray arm assembly. Replaced worn and damaged parts. Installation was reverse order of disassembly.
There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them.
The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.
To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.
To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb.
Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.
Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.
