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I broke my knobs off with cast iron skillet, old knobs needed replaced.
I removed the old knobs and replaced with the new ones. We also replaced one of the switches which the knobs fit on, because I broke the switch off with a Cast iron skillet.
We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.
The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.
It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.
Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!
burner on electrics range was either off, or fully on
The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part. Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws. turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good. It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available
The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.
I pulled off the other 3 old knobs. Pushed on the new ones, which pushed on hard, but work. They stick out farther than the originals. They look a little different, but only to me. No one else would notice. The main part is, it works. A little spenty for my taste, but did not know where else to go and they arrived very quick.
Burner on 'high' only, no other settings other than 'off'.
SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.
Nearly 29 year old grill element was broken and not heating properly.
Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.
Downdraft blower motor noise, fluctuating fan speed and binding. Also replaced indicator light for burner knob.
1. Turned off electrical breaker at electrical service panel. 2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top. 3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top. 4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection) 5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box). 6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan. 7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position. 8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor. 9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan. 10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor. 11. Reassemble in reverse order. Note: I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable. I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.
The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.