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Burners were not regulating and they were just going on high
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!
First I removed the two screws that hold the chrome piece that had the switch in it. I had to disconnect the two lights that light up when the elements go on, had to do that to get to the lock washers that hold the switch in place. Put the new switch in place but couldnt get the new lock washers on the both broke, had to go to the hardware store and get new ones just as little bit bigger, they went on slick. The switch works great again, buy new lock washers before you start
Removed grill cover, two phillip screws on front end of the vent holding the switch assembly in place. Lifted the switch assembly and removed the two wires (plugged into lugs). Then removed the two universal nuts with a 3/8" nutdriver and removed the old switch. Cleaned area and put the new switch in place and replaced the universal nuts, then attached the wires. Replaced the switch assembly and the two holding screws. Then inserted the grill cover and Voila! Finished
I watched a You Tube video,removed and dismantled the door, installed the new hinge. I forgot to remove the small pin which is similar to a rivet. When I tried to close the door it bent. Eventually, I remembered the shipping pin and pulled it out with any damage. Believe it or not, I had read about the shipping pin on customer comments on PartsSelect...Good luck, it is relatively easy!
My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.
Burn was full on or "high" at any switch position other than off.
Followed other's instructions from the web site: First - turned off the power at circuit breaker; removed two screws from downdraft vent area; pushed the switch housing back towards vent and lifted; held replacement switch next to defective switch and removed and replaced one wire at a time; loosed switch collar-nut and swapped defective switch for new one. Only issue was the "rat's nest" of wires gave very little room to work, especially if you have average sized hands.
Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.
Both door hinges was simply worn out from 20+ years of usage.
Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.
My daughter & I followed the instructions in your video and had fun repairing the door. The video showed exactly how to do the repair. I hope I don't need any appliance parts very soon but I will certainly pull up your web site if I do. Thanks for an excellent instruction video.
I feel that the design of the indicator light, with the base attached to the bottom of the lens, is ingenious in that it eliminates the need for fasteners in that confined space, However, the plastic used for the base needs to be more flexible. Part of the base broke off in trying to force the base over the bottom of the lens. Fortunately, there was enough left on the base that I could slip it over the bottom of the lens and complete the installation.
You probably want to look inside as you read this. Most of it is straightforward, except the retaining clips.
First, I turned off the breaker switch. Opening the control housing, I disconnected the two leads and wrote down their orientation (one is silver, the other copper). In my JennAir model, an orange burner light is on either side of the fan switch. The white plastic on the rear is held on by their keyhole shape - just slide them the only way they can. This gives extra working room.
Since the switch plastic was already decayed, I snapped off the whole central square unit leaving the 2 portions held onto the posts by the metal retaining clips. Using a small flathead screwdriver, I pried up the plastic remnants, working around it until the retaining clips came loose/ broke.
The new unit fit perfectly and easily. The new retaining clips needed to be worked down a small circular file to spread the centers out enough for me to work onto the retaining posts. The file was just barely bigger than the existing hole. The clips can be broken if you are too rough or work them too much. After that, I used a pair of snub nosed pliers to push the clips down the posts. They required a considerable amount of force, but they aren't going anywhere anytime soon.
Reconnect the lights, reconnect the 2 leads, and check for any loose wires from other controls and loose parts. Reseat the control housing, turn on the breaker and test.
