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Burning odor, melted terminal block
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet 1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer. 2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood. 3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord 4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer 5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer. 6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals 7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire 8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block 9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire. 10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws 11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block 12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet 13) Turned breaker back on
Control knob had broken and we were unable to set the dryer
I first ordered the replacement knob. It had broken before and I had repaired using a steel washer and epoxy to support the cracked plastic. When the support system I installed broke, I suspected a deeper problem; increased resistance to knob rotation in the control system. I removed the front panel to get back at the switch area. I wanted to lubricate the whole control, but UT seemed to be well sealed. Finding a couple areas where the plastic came together, held by a permanent metal mount, I used a pressurized silicone lubricant and sprayed into the small spaces. That allowed for easier rotation of the control, hopefully giving a longer lifespan to the new knob. DO
Remove front cover of stackable washer dryer to expose pump. Remove belt from drum and motor. Remove water lines from pump. Remove motor and pump which is on top of motor. Pump was rusted to shaft of motor which was removed by pry bars. Cleaned shaft with emery cloth and applied never siezed to shaft. Replaced motor. Replaced pump on shaft of motor. Replaced wiring. Replaced hoses. Replaced belt. Replaced hold down clips. Back in service.
unpluged dryer first. Removed knob,rear panel and two screws holding timer in panel. Swaped wires one at a time to new timer and replaced it in dryer.Replaced rear cover and pluged it in and tested the timer .it worked fine so repair complete.
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.
After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy. I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.
I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.
old selector knob cracked inside could not use the dryer.
removed the old selector knob just pulled it out gently and lined up the new selector knob and gently pushed it into correct alignment. what a breeze. reasonable prices. saved me $ on a service call, part, and labor. Thank you M
I just feel the postage is way too much for an item that weighs under 1 oz.
Nasty, rusted lint trap didn't function any longer
The part arrived in just a couple of days and was exactly the right one. Simply removed the old and replaced and now the dryer works 100 percent better. .
The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.
Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.
