4KSRF22DTW00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I removed the screw holding the nozzle in place, and removed the other end of the line under the refrigerator to give me some slack. Then I clipped the nozzle off of the black line and taped the new line to the end I cut off with electrical tape. Then I just snaked it down through the hole with me pulling from the bottom and my wife pushing from the top and reattached both ends. Make sure you don't use too much tape becaue it won't fit throught the hole at the bottom. I taped them together at an angle so not to make tape too thick. Also, you can snake it back from the bottom if the tape breaks and the old line comes out of the fridge.

The first thing to do was determine what part of the defrost circuit was bad. (it could have been the defrost timer assembly or the defrost heater or a bad wire in the circuit). To do this I took the cover off of the refrigerator temp control to see the timer. Taking a large screw driver I rotated the timer (clockwise) until I heard the compressor cut off. Then I placed a mark on the timer to note its location and waited to see if the mark moved( this indicated the motor was running). After 20 minutes the compressor kicked back on and the timer had rotated, this told me the timer was at least rotating. The next step was to see if there was voltage going to the defrost heater around the freezer evaporation coil. (The heater is what melts the frost of the evaporation (cooling) coils
This requires the removal of all the shelves, ice maker, and all the covers in the freezer section to expose the evaporation coil.
The defrost heater wraps around the outside edges of the evaporation coil. The heater is suppose to come on for 20 minutes every 8 hours to keep the evaporation coil from becoming covered with frost which will prevent the air from circulating into the refrigerator section.
I found where the heater leads plug into the back wall of the freezer and with the power on and in the defrost cycle (turn or index the timer around with the large screw driver until the compressor cuts off again). Carefully read across these two heater leads and check for 120 VAC. Noting there was 120vac across these two leads I then turned the refrigerator off and unplugged the refrigerator from the wall.
Now with the Volt Meter set to the Ohms setting I unplugged the two heater leads with the needle nose pliers and read the ohm value across the two wire leads of the heater element. (I got lucky and found a schematic folded up and stuck just behind the front grill at the bottom of the freezer). The schematic told me the ohm value should have been 22 ohms. However, my value was 0 ohms this told me the heater had an open circuit (it had a broken wire inside the heater element). I located the correct part using the model # on the Part Select website and ordered the defrost heater element for my model refrigerator. I received the part in three days.
Now for the fun part, of removing and installing the new element.
This is not brain surgery but … it is not for the faint at heart either, you must be able to work in tight areas and be agile enough to sit on the floor while reaching the back of the freezer and be patient and deliberate with your moves. (kind of like playing the Milton Bradley game “Operation” as a kid)
Next step is to remove the two top screws holding the evaporation coil to the back of the freezer, then remove the cover to expose the refrigerant lines inside the freezer, remove the two foam side supports holding the coil centered in the back of the freezer and then VERY carefully lift the evaporation coil straight up to un- hook it from the bottom clips which hold the bottom of the coil stationary. Then gently remove the two aluminum side plates from the coil by bending the tabs that hook these plates to the curved refrigerant coils they are hooked around. With the side plates removed then carefully un- hook the 4 clips which hold the heater in place around the evaporation coil. Using a pair of needle nose pliers unplug the heater leads from the back wall contact point (Remember to be sure and unplug refrigerator before doing this) At this point VERY carefully lift up slightly and gently pull the bottom of the coil out (trying to keep the top of the coil at the same elevation and parallel to the back wall pull the bottom out to a point where the heater element can be slid down and out of the evaporation coil as it is basically woven thru the coil assembly to efficiently defrost the coil.
Once the heater is carefully slipped down and out of the evaporation coil, replace the heater element with the new one by feeding the wires bac

Removed shelving,ice maker & other air deverters to get at fan motor. Disconnected power, then removed motor by removing screws holding motor assembly in place. Push fan blade on to motor reconnect wiring.
Chirping stopped and ice cream is now rock hard.

Food door gasket was more time consuming than hard. Loosen old gasket screws with not driver. Gasket is then easily removed. Reinstall gasket, but keep retaining strips loose so you can adjust gasket for a correct fit.

Started the replacement of the existing dual outlet valve by removing cardboard covering the lower back of the refrigerator exposing the outlet valve. Closed the water supply valve at the wall. Removed the hose bibb water supply connection on the outlet valve by hand as it is only hand-tight. I used a small plastic container to catch the minimal amount of water left in the copper line. I removed the electrical connection on each solenoid valve (one for the in-door water supply and one for the icemaker supply). I removed the plastic supply lines from the outlet valve. I removed the screws on the bracket attaching the dual outlet valve to the refrigerator vertical rail. I reconnected the electrical connectors to the valve. I reattached the plastic supply lines to the valve, but did not tighten them fully at this point. I secured the bracket on the new valve to the existing screwholes on the refrigerator rail. The new outlet valve does not have a hose bibb connector, it has a compression fitting for the supply. I reused the existing copper supply line from the wall angle-stop valve to reconnect to the new outlet valve. (It would have been best to have cut the copper line and used a new furrel on the copper line). Note that the supply line now comes into the outlet valve from the top, not the rear as on the old valve, so now the dual outlet valve sticks out beyond the frame of the refrigerator. I tightened the nuts on the plastic supply lines on the valve. I had to cut the cardboard cover around the new outlet valve. Resecured the cardboard cover to the back of the frig. Checked for leaks, turned the icemaker on by lowering the shutoff arm, and after a few moments, the outlet valve opened, water flowed into the icemaker, and all is well.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

I removed the screws that attached the drum housing to the bin. I detached the auger & removed the broken drum assembly, turning the auger to the right, opposite what I thought it should be. I slipped the end of the auger into the new bin coupler & put it in place at the rear of the bin. Next I slipped the auger drum into place & tightened it to the left with a socket wrench. I screwed the drum housing to the bin, put the bin back into the freezer & I now have ice through the door again. Easy repair even for me, a 60+ woman.

As cookbook authors and publishers, my husband and I depend on our appliances. When our icemaker would no longer work, it was imperative that we repair it as quickly and ecomonically as possible. We had used PartSelect.com earlier to order a part to repair our Jenn-Air stove top and had great results. So, rather than paying a repairman four times or more the cost of the part, we ordered the part and my husband installed it. It took less than 30 minutes to remove the broken auger and install the new one. THANKS PartSelect.com -- we'll use you for all appliance parts needs.

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

I replaced the dual outlet valve and deiced the filler tube going to the ice maker. I removed the filler tube and ran hot water on it. I believe the old filler valve was leaking letting water slowly into the filler tube where it eventually froze solid.