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washing machine front loader door would not close, making the machine useless
I removed the broken door catch, which consisted of removing two screws, making it a snap to do, all you needed was a screw driver, and replaced it with the new one using the same screws, This took about 5 mins. to do and was very simple. Turning the machine into a working washer again. : ) After looking all over for the part,and not finding it I was thrilled when you carried the part. Even though the machine is old, it works great. Thank you for the selection of all the parts you carry and how you make it so easy for us to find what we need. , and having it in stock, which was mailed right away, so I could replace the catch and have the washer back in use in less than a week. Thank you
The striker is really easy to replace. Remove 2 #3 phillips screws, replace the striker part, and tighten the screws.
It got more complicated when too many striker tips broke off inside the latch assembly and prevented the tip of the new striker from going inside. To get at the latch assembly, I had to remove the big rubber gasket that connects the drum to the frame of the machine. I removed this at the drum end. Big mistake! It took two of us to get the gasket back onto the drum, and I had to take the frame end of the gasket off anyway. That end is a lot easier to put back on. Anyway, I finally got to the latch assembly, which attaches to the machine with two screws. It has 3 connectors and the housing is a grey plastic clamshell that latches in 3 places. It came apart and parts came out. Jamming the latches open and very gently prying the clamshell open may let you escape the small parts barrage. Once I got everything back together, it all worked.
Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there. This machine has broken 4 strikers. They break during the wash cycle. Taking a cue from a previous DIY description on this site, I took the hinge apart. It looks like there is a part missing, because there isn't anything that keeps the door aligned with the rest of the machine. The door drops down as low as it can go on the hinge pin and the plastic of the door frame rides directly on the arm of the hinge part. I've shimmed it up about 3/16" temporarily, and it seems to work, but I can't escape the idea that I shouldn't have to do this...
Door latch on front-loading washing machine cracked/broke
The part arrived in record time but, the hardest part of the job was removing the existing screws. Finally had to resort to pulling out the drill and using it with a screwdriver bit to power out the existing screws. Replacing the part itself was super easy. Plus, had to use the drill to even put back in the existing screws. Have to admit, if it ever breaks again (9 years old now) I am worried about getting those screws out/in without stripping something.
Door latch broke and I thought this is it, I'm going to have an expensive repair bill or have to get another washer. Then I had a brain fart, that maybe I could fix it myself. So, I went online, found Parts Select, easily fournd the part and got it two days later.
I removed the broken latch and kept the two screws and used them to install the new latch. I held my breath when I started the washer, but it ran just like it was supposed. Not bad for a 12year old washer and a 64 year old female owner. And kudos to Frigidaire for making such a good product. And parts select for making it easy to fix.
The rubber boot on our front loading washing mashine was torn and needed replacing to stop the leaking water.
The instructions were good, but putting the spring on was quite difficult. The 3 spacers that came with the boot didn't want to stay in place. Finally I got 2 c clamps, putting a clamp over the spring and rubber spacer, and that did the trick. without the c clamps it would have been extremely difficult to get that spring on. Now it's fixed and no more leaks.
I bought this as much for the instructions as for the part...as I wasn't sure how to get a spring back around the bellows. The instructions were good, however I found that the spring went on best when I had two sets of hands - one set holding the spring in place (with a metal tool to make sure it didn't slip - as the rubber spacer didn't do the job) , and the other hand guiding the spring around the rest of the bellow. Also, when putting the metal clamp back around the water inlet area, I didn't have 3/8" soft copper tube on hand, so I used a couple of other tools to get the metal pieces to wrap around eachother. Also, leaning the washer back on the wall helped make room for my hands to get into the machine and do the work.
The door catch caused a loud buzzer or would not allow the washer to run.
We have not yet installed the part, as we epoxied the old part back together. However, the part provided was a perfect match, so as soon as it falls apart again we are installing this new part. Even if it is 2:00 a.m. and insomnia has me doing laundry, I am set! Thanks for the super fast delivery.
The door catch broke. Front loading washer door wouldn't close.
It was easy to replace. Two screws hold in the part. I wrote down the model and serial number of the washing machine. I went on the website, and within a couple seconds I looked at the diagram and found the part that I needed. I paid for regular shipping and the part came very quickly. It was painless.
Door catch broke into several pieces and wouldn't latch
First I removed the two screws holding the door latch in place. I removed the broken door latch, cleaned the surface behind it and reinstalled the replacement door latch with the same two screws I originally removed from the door. Before completing the process I also examined the door to the front loading washing machine and noted the hinge and screws were loose. I tightened the hinge screws and closed the door. It worked great!
unscrewed the contol board that blocked access to the bottom of the shock absorber.
pulled the original pins out with pliers while pressing in the piece that prevents it from working its way out.
removed the shock absorber.
placed the new shock absorber in the bottom mount, put soap on the pin for lubrication and pushed it through the hole. Put the top of the shock absorber in its place and placed the other pin in.
replaced the control board and replaced the rear panel.
First I turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. I took off the back panel and unscrewed the 4 bolts holding the motor in place. The grounding screw was impossible to remove, so I had to cut the wire off. Took out motor and disconnected the electrical connector. Put new motor in (ordered new belt, figuring it would need replacing - was still in excellent shape, but replaced it anyway), bolted in the motor (socket set works best on further away bolts, screwdriver for closer ones). Put the belt on the motor first and then pulled it up over the side of the tub and turned the tub to get it around the whole tub - took alittle bit of turning to get it on. Plugged in electrical connector and screwed grounding wire into hole. Replaced back panel and water hoses. Got a bit dirty and sweaty but not too hard to do it yourself, as I am a 48 yr woman and don't usually do this kind of thing.
noisy operation, sometimes did not drain, gave OE code
Thank you for the very helpful YouTube video. After watching the video, I was able to diagnose the problem, buy the part from your website, and complete the repair. This is my personal machine - I am not a professional repairman.
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.
Take off the back, one of the shock absorbers was broken, it was very obvious. Looked up part at partselect.com, very easy, ordered part, it came in 2 days, the repair took another 15 minutes. There were directions inside the repair part to tell you a trick to get the old one off. It worked like a charm. Why spend $200-300 or more on a repair on a $500 washer when you can do the entire job for about $30 and get it back working in 2 days!! No brainer.
