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Water was collecting in the machine after it finished its cycle.
Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.
Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.
Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.
Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.
Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.
Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.
To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.
Washing machine stopped purging water from drum to hose
Do not pay a service company to come to your house to make this fix!!! If you have common sense, simple tools, a phone camera and some mini zip ties you can do this!
After watching a couple YouTube videos on installing a new motor I had the confidence to start the job. My biggest worry was I'd forget where a screw/part went so I took a lot of pictures as I disassembled. I also laid all the parts out on a table reflective of where they belonged on the machine. I learned washers aren't rocket science - YOU CAN DO THIS. The most difficult part of the fix was my washer was a different model so much of the caging was completely different than YouTube disassembly, but once I got into the machine it was fairly identical. Easily popped out the old, broken motor and inserted the new LG certified part. Reassembled in 1/2 the time of disassembly and my machine works like new:) Hoping to get another 10+ years out of this washer.
Thanks PartsSelect for the high quality certified LG part. Very nice quality and weight.
Cold water inlet valve was leaking where solenoid attaches to valve body.
Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :) Disconnect power & water Remove top panel, two screws at back Remove two screws holding valve to washer body Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes Remove tubes by twisting and pulling Reverse process to install new valve.
I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.
Noticed small tear in hose bellows and leak during reassembly
I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.
Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.
5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).
I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.
Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.
I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars
Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.
The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.
1 tilt washer back 2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel. 3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws . 4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back. 5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing 6 Swap pump and re-attch wires