3UMTW5955TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

Found this web site after reading forums on slow spins and I determined it was a clutch problem. Ordered the clutch from "Part Select", watched the 19 minute video (excellent) on changing out a clutch from this website. After 1.5 day delivery, I installed per video. Very pleased, thank you; Dave

Replaced Cltch assembly. Hardest part was figuring out how to drop the motor. The clutch is located of the main shaft above the motor, under the drum. Three bolts hold the motor in from underneath, however there is a bolt at the top of the shaft in the agitator assembly. Note location of the snap ring on the shaft holding the clutch assembly, grooves in shaft. The only other issue that I had is the is a triangular metal peice that is not attached in anyway between the drum and framing. It had moved when I had the motor and had to be reset after I did my first test run of washer. Spins out great now!

First off, the replacement lid switch worked and repaired the washer. However, the replacement procedure was very difficult. I attempted to follow the directions off of the website, and then a video from YouTube. I was intstructed to remove two screws from the back of the control panel which in turn would flip up so I could get to the old lid switch and replace it. However, there were no screws on the back side of the control panel so I removed the back panel of the washer to get to the lid switch. That was a very time consuming and laborious procedure and because the back panel was installed under the molding of the control panel I had to bend the heck out of the back panel to remove it. The good news is that the replacement of the lid switch corrected the problem. The bad news was that it was the wrong procedure on getting to the part that needed replacement. I wish that I could have found the proper procedure form my particular model.

Almost identical to the instruction video that was sent. Very straight forward. I did not take apart the washer to identify the problem. I was short on time so I took a chance and ordered the highest probability cause of the symptoms indicated by your website. It was dead on; the problem is fixed. Parts were received ahead of schedule. Excellent all around.

After researching possible failure modes and reviewing a video for teardown/access from the control panel and access top down I noticed a lot of 'break dust' on top of the transmission. Shorting out the lid switch and putting my little finger on the drum, it would not spin but the clutch was spinning fine. I ordered a new clutch... Interesting thing when I was taking the clutch out... the gear it was attached to slid right off! After figuring out it was too big to go 'back' into the transmission and reviewing the parts explosion diagram... it BELONGED INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION! So I took the transmission cover off, poured out out the black-ish oil with metal filings in it, put the gear inside, filled it back up with 10W30, put the lid on, added the new clutch while it was apart and finished reassembly. Wow! It spins much better than when it was new. I guess never assume what can happen on an assembly line. Thanks for the great site.

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

The clutch itself was fairly easy to repair. I did use some tips from youtube on disassambly, and the enclosed instructions helped to put the clutch in. There were 3 bolts I had to remove to take the drive assembly off, and 1 to pull the agitator out. And putting it back together it went in almost backwards. All in all, this is a fairly simple procedure in taking the time to complete the steps

How did I repair? I opened the box removed the part, handed it to my wife with a 1/2" nut driver and she installed it in 1 min.

Replaced the lid switch by pulling the washer out enough to gain access. Not necessary to disconnect the waster hoses. Remove the two screws from the white plastic tabs on the rear of the control panel. Also remove the two screws connecting the control panel from the washer body. Lift the lid slightly and pull the control panel forward. Disconnect the pug into the lid switch and remove the switch. Replace the switch but remember to lift the lid while doing so. Lid has a small arm that must engage the switch correctly. Replace the control panel and reinstall the screws. Repair is very simple.

This was a great buy!!! All the hose clips as well as the hose retainer came installed on the new hose (in the correct location) the hardest part was waiting for the part to arrive...it took me least three 2 minutes to install...if my dog had thumbs he could have replaced the drain hose.

watched video and followed instructions, no problems.

The spin cycle was super slow leaving clothes soaking wet at the end of a full wash cycle. Ordered a clutch repair kit, watched the how to video that was e-mailed to me with my order while I did the repair and got it done in about 45 minutes. This was my first true appliance repair outside of maybe a busted fuse or replacing the heating element in a stove. Never thought taking the motor, transmission and clutch out of the washer and putting all back together would be so very simple. Meanwhile my wife is pissed because she thought she might be able to go get a brand spankin new washer...until I fixed the old one. Thanks for saving me some dough PartSelect.

well my Dearest Kenmore washer was vibrating badly so i looked the part in yoursite of parts select it diagnosed it i ordered the 2 different supension pads relaced then and now my Dearest kemore washer works like new again Thankyou Parts select for all your help and the price was perfect...

Pulled off old seal. Snapped on new seal. Takes longer to type it than it did to do it.