3ED25DQXVN01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the cover from Thermostate, removed the wires, and screws holding old thermostate, reversed instulation with the new thermostat, pretty simple.

This is real easy even if you are not mechanically incline. To remove the broken stud I just used channel locks (pliers will work) to go straight over the stud and grip the flat edges of the base of the stud. With a slight inward pressure and a counterclockwise turn of about 90 degrees (quarter turn) and then gently pulled it out while still turning it with the channel locks, it came right out. Installation is just as easy. Starting at about 180 degrees (half turn) from final installation position (see other studs) grab the stud with your channel locks the same way you took out the broken one and push it into the hole firmly while turning it clockwise and maintaining a inward pressure. stop when you get to the point where it is in the same position as the other studs and the base is flush with the fridges inner wall. put your shelves back in and you are done.

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove the entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

Googled for a solution to how to fix a refrigerator door that would not close. Was directed to a video from PartSelect. Was wrong brand, but I got the general idea. Then, I looked up a refrigerator repair for Whirlpool. Called PartSelect with my model number and ordered a Cam Kit. Total cost shipped $20. Arrived in two days during the Holidays! Nice! (Ordered 12/23, Arrived 12/26). Opened package, fired the video up. Fixed in 15 minutes. Amazing!

It took me longer to get the glass out of the packaging that it did to make the repair. Once I got it out, the only thing to do was to place it in the glass insert. Very simple.

Removed screws from the back of the part in the fridge. Pulled old part out. Measured the old part. Cut new part to fit. Replaced new part and tightened the screws. Worked perfectly.

Watched youtube video from your site. The video was great and the ice macine works perfectly now.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

Working from inside out . Remove left upper tube cover and then vent cover . Remove thermostat tube from around the vent . Remove knobs and front cover . Remove 4 hex screws , drop the whole unit enough to expose the left control rod , remove the rod retaining clip . Gently separate control rod from unit . Take the whole unit to working bench or table . Remove thermostat and bracket . Need to reuse bracket with new thermostat . Don't forget the clear plastic tube you have to reuse that as well . Be careful not to kink the thermostat tube . Reverse procedure , working from outside in . Good luck

Unpluged the refrigerator. Removed the cover on the control unit by inserting a screw driver under the metal clips. Removed the three screws frrom the front of the control unit. Pulled toward the back of the refrigerator on the metal loop which turns the icemaker on and off and it came loose where it goes into the control unit. Wiggled the unit and it came free. place the new unit in approximately the right position. Reached into the icemaker and moved the ice eject leavers so the shaft would enter the control unit with the flat side of the ejector in the right position. Gently pushed the control unit into its place and aligned the screw holes. Replaced the three screws. Inserted the wire shut off loop into the hole on the back of the control unit housing. Pluged in the electric. The ice maker worked.

Followed instructions on video on website. Very easy to do. Removed old part, put in new and it took all of 15-20 minutes. Had ice in approximately 1 hour.

I followed the video instructions, which were wonderful! Thank you for that. I removed the shelves, then turned each stud counterclockwise a quarter of a turn and worked them out. I would have been able to finish in 15 min. Or less, but one of the studs crumbled, leaving only the wire; so I grabbed the wire with the pliers and was able to work the old stud out after several minutes. I placed the new studs into the holes and turned them clockwise until they snapped in place. What a quick and easy fix!

The new auger looks nothing like the older one it replaced but rest assured the part fits and it works better than the original. Once I figured out the LH stamped on the motor coupler meant left hand thread the repair was a breeze. It's a lot easier if you remove the motor assembly from the freezer and let it come to room temperature before starting the repair.

Followed the instructions, tool out the 'bad' ice maker and replaced it with the replacement ice maker...saved a bunch of money and the job was very easy!!!

I unplugged the refrigerator then I took the bottom screw out of the ice maker. I loosen the other two screws and picked up on the ice maker and it came out. I saw that the top of the ice maker where the screws are they sit in a groove so you dont have to take the top screws out just loosen them and pick up on the ice maker and it will come out. Then I unplugged it from the old ice maker not from the wall of the refrigerator. The reason is I didnt want to mess up the cover that hides the plug in the wall of the refrigerator. Then I took the metal on and off bar off the old ice maker and put it on the new one. Then I took the face off the new ice maker and unplugged the new wire. All you have to do is press down on the little clip and pull back on the plug. Then I plugged the old plug into the new ice maker. Then I set the ice maker in the grooves on the top screws then iput the bottom screw back in then I tighten all screws. I plugged the refrigerator in. I started getting ice in thirty minutes. My wife think I can fix anything now. Thanks