36588 (P1108402W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

The fix was relatively easy but I could not get 2 of the screws removed. They were in very tight and I didn't have the right tools. Also, in the Amana refridgerator, they are in a "difficult to get at" location. I called my plumber friend and he helped me. Once the screws were out, the rest of the job went very smoothly as others have described. We took out the bad icemaker and reconnected the new one to the existing harness. I had ice in an about an hour. Thanks so much, PartSelect. The delivery was quick and the install was as many described on your website. You provide a wonderful service for the "do it yourselfer". Terri

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove the entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

Couldn't believe how complicated this part is with heaters. It is used in at least a billion refrigerators and functions well. But I had to tear it all apart to adopt it. Got it all done and stayed awake all night for waiting for Ice. Nothing! Then a Erika moment! Turn the ice arm full switch off! Then Ice poured out every hour. Expecting many years of ice. Thanks for speedy delivery especially before Christmas..

need instr. to repair

The repair was a lot easier than I thought. I first ordered the ice-maker part from PartSelect. Followed the instructions from the how-to video and I was done within 30 minutes. Unplugged the fridge, took out the two 1/4" nut screws holding up the ice-maker, disconnected the wiring harness and then re-attached the new ice-maker in reverse order. Had to use some of the parts from the old ice-maker, like the cover, ice wire (the wire that moves up and down, letting you know when the ice box was full or starts the ice-making process) The whole process along the PartSelect video made it easy.

Watch the video and then do the repair.

removed the old ice maker and put in the replacement one we purchased.

easy enough, removed 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness, put new unit on work bench, put old wire harness on new unit, put old motor cover on new unit,(the only trouble i had was figuring out how to swap the light blue plastic piece for the white plastic piece, i just put a screwdriver underneath and applied pressure) plugged harness back into freezer, turned water back on and waited... 2 hours later heard beautiful ice cubes dropping into tray :)

The ice maker was easy but the older Maytag inlet valves are rigid plastic line- make sure that line is properly connected to back of fridge- the 1st night the water leaked down back of freeze- thus no ice in ice maker tray ----but the bottom of freezer was full of frozen water--- took ice maker off and realigned inlet pipe- once that was done- no more problems- ( did also have to take hair dryer and remove all ice build up in bottom of freezer --- remember to check that rigid line as it can become detached while changing out ice maker assembly- thx Greg

Installation was really easy since the replacement part was identical to the OEM part. Removed the three mounting screws with a nut driver. This allows one to remove the icemaker from the wall and disconnect the wire harness plug from the icemaker. I never unplugged the harness from the rear wall of the refrigerator. Put the new icemaker in place, making sure to place the water fill tube in the proper hole. Plugged the wire harness into the new icemaker and tightened the three mounting screws. The icemaker worked perfectly from then on with clean ice cubes and no leaks.

Took ice maker out all together we removed 4 to 5 screws had to remove axel to get the broken piece out and new one in my husband said it was easy in and out in about 15 minutes saved about 150. 00 Thanks partslect

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

Replaced icemaker by using total kit. Watched youtube video put on by partselect folks. Very easy to follow.

I checked the part number and an exact replacement was ordered. The old unit was removed and what I failed to note was that the water supply hose for the new unit entered from the side. Further examination showed a small "break-out" piece at the rear of the unit. but I still had to do something about the hole in the side. I used a piece of metal tape to close off that hole, trimmed it to size, and installed the unit. It was really an easy install after I figured out what to do about the hole. Evidently, this unit is mounted on the side of the freezer compartment in some models. Reading the reports of others was a big help.

I followed the video and advice from the many others on this site and only have a few additional comments. First, the decorative cover on the front of the old unit is held on with two plastic teeth on the top and bottom of the cover. This was not at all apparent and it took me awhile to figure it out. I used a sharp knife to pry up the top edge until the teeth lost their grip on the metal notches in the old unit. Second, don't try to pull the cables out of the front of the old unit before removing that cover. It is held in with a plastic snap that must be depressed after the cover is removed. The video does a good job explaining how to remove the old metal arm and attach it to the new unit so that it will recognize the ice level in the bucket. Finally, don't bother looking around the web site for a button that enables you to add to these comments. You'll be contacted by email in a week or two for that.