Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Light out
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.
Fan would not turn when the refrigerator came on all the time. Would physically have to turn the fan blades.
Did not do the repair because the unit arrived damaged. The packaging was in good condition. The plastic around the plug in shattered, and some of the plastic was inside the motor. Very good, and fast on adjusting the order.
Replace the door gasket on the freezer door of my top-freezer refrigerator
Removed the door by removing the two screws holding it on. Do not try to do this repair with the door attached. Easily removed the old gasket. Getting the new one on the door was EXTREMELY difficult. I couldn't do it. After 90 minutes, I gave up and called my appliance repairman. When he arrived, he and I worked together to get the new gasket on the door. It took 2 sets of hands to do this. It still took us about 40 minutes. My repairman had a few choice words about the design of the system holding the gasket on the door. Ditto for me. So the cost of my repair was doubled because I had to pay the repairman to help me attach the new gasket. I should have just bought a new fridge.
The refrigerator would not stop running, resulting in frozen food in the refrigerator compartment.
After reading the trouble shooting section of the owners manual, I determined, without much difficulty, that the temp control was defective. I checked some local outlets and found the prices running from $36.00 and up. The same part from this site was around $20.00. Guess where I bought mine! It arrived in a timely fashion, and I installed it with no problem, in about 10 - 15 minutes. This was a very easy job, just remove and replace three wires snap the unit into place, and screw the cover on. Tip: I always use you tube or another source to get some instruction, just in case I'm not as smart as I think I am!
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Fridge never cuts off.freeze everything inside of fridge.
To remove the temp sensor.2 Phillip head screws not remove the cover inside fridge .the temp control knob cover.removed that and unplugged switch.installed new switch.reinstalled cover.
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
End caps on door retainer bar were broken and shelf could not be used.
I replaced the end caps on the retainer bar on the freezer door and also the ref. door in less that 5 minutes. Both are working fine now. I am a 75 year old women who is very happy with the repair.
40 year old refrigerator brittle light switch fell apart
with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.