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Replaced igniter pins but no joy, needed igniter module
Most videos show getting to the igniter module from the front when in fact with this older GE its accessed through the back left corner from the backside. So easy, a few screws and I was in. Quick change out and all worked well again.
A section of the gasket came off the door. It was causing heat to escape.
Found the Model information under the bottom drawer. Googled GE Range and rubber, found this vendor. Amazing, the replacement gasket was exactly as the original. Took the old gasket off with needle nose pliers, there were small metal clamps that had to be pinched together. Once the old gasket was off, the new one practically installed itself. Woman Power!
No longer carry the one to our stove so it was substituted with Nafisa on it. You could see all the electronics so we had to pry the old face off the old one blew it in place, but a clock was reversed from timer, but it works.
Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.
while cleaning I broke the tubes either lifting or closing the top.
I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.
Lift up work light cover. Remove lamp. Remove two screws from control panel. Lift up control panel. Pop out spark module from slots. Remove the 6 wires from module. Attach wires to new module - module has a diagram on it that shows where wires are attached. Push new module back into slots. Replace control panel cover, lamp, and work light. Now the burners light - the spark is MUCH stronger than before repair.
Screws fell into a black hole and trouble threading the thermostate
My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.
replacement was a snap and took only a small adjustable wrench and a flashlight. asome slight bending of the tube was required, but a gentle hand solved the problem easily.
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
