36071 (P1108705W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

I discovered that the water inlet was freezing, then the incoming water would run into the tray. I watched the video, then removed the ice maker. I discovered the the top two screwed just had to be loosened, not removed. I removed the bottom screw and move the ice maker to the side to disconnect the wiring harness. I found it to hard to disconnect. The pinch clips did not depress as they were supposed to, but the finally release. I did the replace without unplugging the refrigerator and it went fine. Took less than 15 minutes.

I removed and inspected the old unit and found the tray coating was flaking off. I ordered the new ice maker on line, One screw and rotate unit counter clockwise about 10 degrees unlocked it from the two snap in mounts. then unplugged the wire harness and it was free. Had to put the short wire harness on new unit, reverse removal steps and it is completed and working fine.

The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.

First attempt was difficult. Part was different and instructions applied to previous part that did not have quick connect. Not clear where quick connect was to be used. Result no ice!second attempt used quick connect in reverse connections and now have plenty of ice. Combination of change in part appearence from previous one ,and different from instructions included with new part, resulted in confusion in installation. In the long run, it worked out well.

I followed one of the handy video's on your site and replaced the timer and now my Uncle's freezer is working again. He's happy so, I'm happy.

Based on comments I read at this web site, I first ordered the water valve; that did not fix the problem. Replacing the icemaker did fix the problem. It was easy to replace. Contrary to the instructional video, I couldn't simply tilt out the icemaker at the bottom after removing the lower screww; I had to loosed the two top screws as well. The leak was caused the coating on the icemaker being cracked and peeling.

We described the problem of the freezer and refrig not keeping cold and with the suggested parts to order and the amazing videos to follow my husband repaired it. We have one part we ordered for temperature control (RO16088) and are waiting to see if it needs to be installed. What a joy it was to hear the sound of ice cubes being made. The refrigerator went out during very hot weather. Thank you again for your wonderful help and videos. Paul and Mary Jo

I watched the video which gave me confidence that I could do the repair which I did in very little time. One thing to emphasize though: When you remove the vertical wire connector from the back of the freezer compartment, remember which color wire is on the top. I needed to watch the repair video a second time to be able to make that determination. Probably the repair video should have mentioned keeping track of that connector regarding the re-connection of it because it could also connect when turned 180 degrees.

I watched a youtube video and completed the repair in less than an hour from start to finish and save myself a service charge. It was fairly easy, the only problem was that it was a bottom freezer and getting to the ice maker was harder than if it was a side by side or top freezer.

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

I used the video on your website. It made me feel very satisfied that I was able to do it myself!

I unplugged the fridge. Then I removed the ice bucket. Then I removed the ice maker using a 3/4 socket to separate the connections and then used a small screwdriver to separate whatever connections were left. Then I installed the new ice maker and checked its level. Everything now works fine.

turned off freezer unplugged ice maker ,unscrewed 3 screws, removed ice maker,wiring harness and wire that goes up and down to control ice maker. installed all in reverse put back in and turned on waited and waited no ice ,theres a little control valve that let's the water in as well that was shot as well had to go get one at a local shop fairly interchangable just pull the other out and take with you,or just order one with your ice maker if you have the fridge out you might as well change it as it's just as old as the ice maker as well .everything pumping well,like never before, tons of ice all the time also put in filter on the water line as well really good tasteing ice now.

I ordered the part for my Dad. We were very pleased how quickly the part arrived. We watched the video and my Dad had the new part installed in less than 15 minutes. The refrigerator is running perfectly.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.