3468VVV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

1) removed 2 lines 2) removed 4 screws 3)pulled out old element4) relaced new part 5)installed screws 6) install lines &tighten

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I killed power
Pulled the back panel
Pulled the door off
pulled light socket wires
reached in and bent in light socket tabs
knocked out light socket
slide in new socket
lifted top of stove (glass)
disconnected glass top wiring
pulled off glass top
pulled both side panels
removed both hinges,
installed new hinges
reinstalled side panels
reinstalled glass top,
reinstalled light socket wiring
installed back panel
installed door
restored power

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

1. Screw the burners counterclockwise 45 degrees to remove each burner. Some gave easily while others were baked on.
2. Remove one philips-head screw per burner.
3. disconnect ignition wire from each burner.
4. remove stovetop.
5. remove the previous hammered orifice and tube assembly by unscrewing 4 nuts.
6. attach the new assembly and follow steps 1-4 in reverse order.

unplug unit remove rear panel screws lift up stove top remove top two screws remove panel remove two hinge screws remove replace hinge and follow in reverse order

moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !