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Freezer was running too warm
Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
The easiest way to replace this gasket is to remove the door from the freezer. Two bolts remove the top hinge and the door pops off. Setting it on sawhorses makes the job easy. In addition, I moved the door into the sunlight which made the gasket flexible and easy to work with.
Remove the screws under the gasket with a phillips screwdriver and lift the inner panel off the door. Clean the area when the gasket sits, put the new gasket in place and replace the inner panel and all the screws.
hardest part was to remove deformities using a hair dryer. Working with hand after heating seemed to work but was not quick. Loosen screws under old gasket. Screws hold gasket lip under the edge of the door liner. Remove old gasket. As door liner was brittle from age, I used silicone caulk across top of door behind flange, set lip of gasket in silicone and tighten screws. Did top and half was down the side, then did the bottom up, taking ank excess gasket and trying to distribute along straight side. Make sure door is plum and square on hinges, then close door. Turned freezer on and allow to cool to see if ice would form, before refilling with food.
tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.
I removed the screws and replace the broken slide with the new slide. Put the basket drawer back on the track and it now stays in place and can easily be used once again.
My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.
Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.
Removed the freezer door which had an electrical cord routed through the lower hinge with a disconnect under the freezer. Job works better with two people. Working the gasket into place was a little tricky at the corners. The putty knife was helpful. Make sure door is not warped when replaced on freezer. If warped slightly the door can be twisted to make gasket fit evenly bottom to top on front edge. Hope this helps DIY folks.
The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer. Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer. Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires. I let coils defrost and then plugged it.