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Freezer compartment works but gets frost and ice buildup. Then the refrigerator compartment fails to get cold. Milk would spoil but freezer stayed frozen.
After watching numerous YouTube videos I realized that my problem was either the timer or the thermostat. I purchased both for above $70 total and decided it was worth the gamble to self- repair it instead of buying a new refrigerator for $700 plus taxes and delivery charges. The videos were right on with excellent directions for replacing these 2 products. Only has one problem… the shrink wrap that came with the thermostat is very thick and will NOT shrink with a hairdryer. I hade to run to ACE Hardware to buy a heat gun and more shrink wrap
After waiting over 2wks for my part to arrive, I purchased the part locally and made the repair the same day as I am still waiting for the part to arrive from you guys. Your customer service really needs improving. I paid for 2 day shipping, what a joke. I will be returning the part as soon as I receive it thanks.
Discovered the coil was covered with 1/2 inch of ice because defrost cycle had not been working. Replacing the defrost timer and melting ice with hair dryer fixed problem. Hooray!
I started look inside ,disconnected power, and open all possible compartments to see any burned part. Fortunately I fined a small part look like melted and then i went online and make my research .Then i ordered that part and change it.
I purchased a new frigh as a back-up downstairs that came with only two shelves. Since I wanted to used it for pop and beer, two more shelves would separate them well.
1.unpack box. 2. slide out of plastic bag. 3. open refirgheratior door. 4. slide in shelves. 5. fill with stuff. 6.figure out a way to reuse packing.
I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.
freezer cold and frosting up but refrigerator warm
inside the freezer compartment, remove four hex head screws from rear panel,lift panel forward and unplug wire assembly from panel. find old defrost thermostat attached to copper tube by clip on back of thermostat, unclip, snip two wires to thermostat, take new thermostat, strip 1/4"of wire from wires in freezer (thermostat is prestripped),insert light blue wire from thermostat and light blue wire from freezer into opposite ends of crimp connector and crimp securely. repeat with dark blue wires. set panel back in freezer,connect plug to back of panel, refasten screws and you are go to go! save yourself the price of a new refrigerator or $300 repair by repairman!
Turned off fridge circuit breaker Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler. Removed shelves from freezer Removed ice maker Removed 2 hex head screws Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection. Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge. Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer. Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover. Cut wires near thermostat and removed Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place. Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected. Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover. Reinstalled ice maker Reinstalled shelves. Put food back in Turned circuit breaker back on.
Fridge started making a loud racket. Condenser Fan Blade then disintegrated to dust and pieces. The plastic had degraded significantly.
The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.
If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.
In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.
Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.