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The freezer coil was frosting up blocking airflow to refrigerator side
I first unplugged the refirgerator. Note the time because the refrigerator should be unplugged at least 30 minutes before plugging back in (see end for why). A trouble light is necessary to see adequately. I removed the shelves and draws and put food in a picnic cooler. I took off the lower panel in the back of the freezer, and defrosted the coils with a hair dryer. I unplugged the wires to the defroster, and then the screw holding the coil to the back of the freezer side. I lifted up on the coil unit to clear the blade that inserts into the drain. I removed the bands on the top of the coil that hold the heating unit in place. I tilted the bottom out when there was clearance, and pulled the defrosting unit down and out. I replaced the new one, and reversed the procedure, and then plugged the wires back into the new defroster unit. The bands on the top should be secured before putting the coil back in place, as well as the foam spacers on top of coil, put the two wires back in the plastic clip that keeps them away from the fan and pipes. Replace lower freezer cover panel and screws. Put shelves and food back in. If at least 30 minutes have passed, plug the refrigerator back in. If you don't wait that long, their will still be pressure in the compressor and it will not start to cool properly right away. It works perfectly now. TIP: check the end of the drain hose periodically by taking off the lower back cover and pull th hose out - not hard to do. Mine plugged from dust and lint build up backing up into the end of the hose so water didn't drain out, and ice built up causing the defroster coil to burn out. I cut a little off the hose so the water level would not rise up into the hose, but the hose would still stay in place in the plastic holder.
Remove back panel inside Freezer compartment remove 2 screws that hold (small) fan motor. Unplug electric motor supply and install new motor in reverse order
I removed the cover from the handle by sliding the top one up and the bottom one down (as opposed to snapping it off). Then I removed the screws that held the old handle in place, put the new one in place and screwed it down.
door handle off but 2 screws top and bottom of handle that attach to door remained under top and bottom molding. had to remove molding which was tricky. Held onto door with plastic clips which several broke when trying to get molding off. Figured out I had to tap top molding up to remove. unscrewed pieces of door handle and attached new handle. Had to use contact cement to secure molding to door where clips had broken.
First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first. Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer. The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!
Make sure unplugged the frig before doing any repair. Just like other DIYers. opened up the evaporator located inside the freezer. Replaced the defrost thermostat, there's only 2 wires, so just make sure which is positive, which is negative. Replaced the defrost timer located on the bottom front of the frig. There's on 2 screws to unscrew. All those work took me less than half hour. Turn on the frig., now it works like a champ again. Hope it will last another 10 years.
The fridge motor was running constantly and the fridge was warm inside
I secured the power to the fridge. I took the metal panel which covers the cooling coils in the freezer off by removing the the 6 sheet metal screws. I used a standard hair dryer to melt the ice block which had formed due to the failure of the defrost timer. I replace the defrost timer, which was located behind the left front wheel of the unit. Finding the timer was the hardest part of the job. Since I was having trouble with the defrost cycle I also decided to replace the defrost thermostat due to its age. The most important item I would like to share is once all the work is done and the panel is back in the freezer, the power is restored take a straight slot screw driver and give the defrost timer about an eighth of a turn clockwise to ensure it starts. Then mark it with a sharpe and check it in 3 or 4 hours to make sure it is running. I did not do this on the one I installed and the freezer did not go into the defrost cycle. Once I got the timer started, well the ice cream stay frozen. BE SURE NOT TO WORK ON YOUR EQUIPMENT WITH IT PLUGGED INTO POWER SOURCE!!!
I replaced the solenoid first because the ice maker was not getting water. After replacing the solenoid valve, I waited about 1/2 an hour, still no water. So, I ordered a replacement ice maker. I then installed the replacement ice maker, waited a 1/2 an hour, still no water. Then, I waited overnight. Yeah, ice! WORD OF ADVICE. WAIT OVERNIGHT TO SEE IF THE ICE MAKER CREATES ICE. Not sure how long a cycle takes, but it's longer than you would think. Hope your installation is a success!
The untwisted the water filter took out the old water filter and replaced it with the new one and twisted the cover back on. it was very easy to do and now the water tastes very fresh :) thank you
Watched YouTube video. Very easy. Used my cell phone camera in ‘selfie’ mode propped up in the upper right hand corner of freezer to see the 2 hidden screws.
Had no ice water. Replaced door gasket. Broken Drawer
First I turned off the water feed and remove the plug from receptacle and wires from valve. Replaced water valve and reconnected wires to valve. Replaced inside drawer. Remove screwes under door gasket, replaced door gasket. No need to buy a new refrigerator right now. Your parts manuals made it easy to find parts.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Bottom drawer broken from too many beer cans.
Unloaded the drawer, pulled it out, took off the front panel, put the panel in the new drawer, reloaded the drawer, and put it back into the fridge. I had the new drawer back in the fridge before the wife even knew I had taken it out of the box. I have been banished from storing my beer in the bottom drawer sincs I broke the old one. This should be the last drawer repair that I have to make.
I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.
upper storage drawer broke at the edges on the rail slide
Pulled the upper drawer out, slid the faceplate/handle up and out of the channel in the drawer. Took the new drawer and slid the faceplate/handle down into the channels and it was done.
