Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Evaporator coil freezing up, freezer and refrigerator are warm
Danger: Replacing these parts requires working with electrical wiring, be certain to unplug the refrigerator before starting work.
1. Unplug appliance 2. Empty freezer section 3. Remove shelves and Ice storage tray 4. Remove 6 screws from evaporator cover. Note: Remember where the screws with insulated washers go. 5. Use a hair dryer to melt all ice from coil Danger: To prevent injury or death from electrocution always ensure that the hairdryer does not get wet while in operation. 6. Unplug defrost heater and defrost thermostat wires Note: Thermostat is wired in series with the heater. 7. Remove screw from white plastic holder located on top of evaporator coil 8. Remove styrofoam pieces from top of coil 9. Grasp the bottom of the evaporator coil and carefully lift and pull out the bottom end a few inches 10. Remove old heater coil by pulling out from the bottom and replace with new coil Note: Be very careful when moving the evaporator, it is made of aluminum and will be very costly to repair if you damage the tubing. 11. Replace old thermostat with new thermostat 12. Re-connect thermostat and heater wiring Note: Remember to route wiring so that condensation does not gravitate to the electrical connections. 13. You can check if the heater is working by manually rotating the defrost timer clockwise. The timer dial is located on the bottom, front of the refrigerator on the freezer side. Be careful, the heater gets very hot. 14. Re-install evaporator cover 15. Re-install shelves and ice storage tray 16. Plug in the refrigerator Note: Depending on how warm your refrigerator was it may take 24 hours to return to normal operating temperatures. Note: Take your time and the job will go faster.
the system has two dual valves. 1 for water, 1 for ice maker. valve 1 feeds valve 2 via water filter. Voltage to operate both valves was present when water dispensor switch was activated. Both valves are on bottom backside of fridge in opposite corners. Problem was valve plunger was stuck. Tip: valves come apart without removing the entire assmbly. the coil or plunger can be replaced. The nice thing is water lines feeding the valves don't need to be removed if valve problem is one of the aforementioned parts. Of course make sure water supply to fridge is shut off!
The old ice maker had stopped working properly. The cycle was inconsistent, and inlet water would run over existing cubes in the tray, before they were dumped into the dispenser box.
This was really simple, much like changing a light bulb. Two bolts loosened beneath the old unit to allow it to be lifted off and free. The power supply plug was easily disconnected. The new unit was then placed onto the loosened bolts, power supply reconnected and secured with the supplied wire tie. A small angled bracket was removed from the old and reattached to the new as a support toward the from of the unit. The cycle adjuster was backed off a 1/2 turn as per the instructions....and the next morning....new automatic ice. Life is good!
My fridge is over 11 years old and for probably the past few years the water coming out of the dispenser in the door was painfully slow. I tried changing the filter and making sure the debris sceens were not clogged but it didn't help. I was so frustrated I was going to buy a new $3K refrigerator. Instead I found this website, bought both valves that control the water (I didn't know which one was faulty) and replaced them both. I figured $100 repair is an easier pill to swallow than a $3k fridge.
Repair took less than 1/2hr and worked flawlessly. It was very easy, just remove the screws that hold the valves in place and swap them out.
Thanks to the great website and quick service I'm very pleased with my refrigerator and have an extra $2900 in my pocket :-)
I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.
Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror
The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
The plastic slides on the Upper and Lower Drawers were broken from years of abuse sliding the drawers in and out. The replacement of the plastic drawers required removing the glass front pieces using a screwdriver and gently seperating the plastic drawer from the front panel from under the assembly. The front panel easily slide out within the drawer runners. Simply slide the front on the new drawer and insert back into the refrig. That simple.
The water coming from the dispensor (and the ice cubes) had an off taste
I didn't know where to go to get the filter, so I went to Parts Select.com, they had the filter in stock. I placed the order and when I received the part (in about 4 days) I was able to get it put in & working in about 15 minutes. The water from the dispensor & the ice cubes taste a lot better. Now that I know where to get parts I won't wait that long to change out the water filter.
I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.
