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Freezer was freezing solid
I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.
Original magnetic door seal no longer sealing & showing gaps. Freezer running continuously. Getting ice buildup around door frame & inside top of freezer.
I originally ordered an aftermarket replacement seal off intranet at half the price. It came in poor packaging & crumpled in a ball when received. After install, it would not seal & worse than the old seal that was replaced. I removed poor quality seal & returned it. I then ordered the OEM seal from PartSelect. It came in proper packaging. I kept the inside door shelving in place with two mid screws. Beginning at top I inserted sealing grove into channel of shelving working all the way around door frame. Making sure there was no crinkles or bulges at one place & it was all even. I replaced all screws ensuring not to over tighten. Close door and made sure magnetic seal pull closed to freezer & door on both sides by sliding my finger all the way around. I did not open the door for 1 hour to ensure rubber seal had taken proper shape to freezer frame. After I worked door Open/Close many times. Door seal worked perfectly every time then and now. This is a perfect example why to buy quality parts the first time.
The temperature displayed on the control panel was erratic
The replacement of the Thermistor is a snap. Take out the bottom two shelves, remove the 8 screws in the back panel, pull it out. Cut the wires to the old thermistor and install the new one. There are demo's on you tube so I wont go into detail.
Unfortunately the replacement door seal was packaged with twists in it and would not lay flat on the door. I found the old seal was not the problem - but instead ice had grown between the door and the door panel so that the door would not seal properly. I reinstalled the old door seal and everything is fine now.
Coming from the refrigerator, there was an intermittent "clicking noise", occurring about every 30 seconds. The frig. eventually failed .
I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.
Needed a Phillips head screwdriver to remove bottom plate (kick panel). UNPLUGGED FREEZER. Removed plate pulled switch out through the mounting hole and unhooked the two electric wires. Placed wires on new switch, pushed wires back through the hole and seated the switch. Plugged in the freezer and opened the door - magic, the light came on. Replaced the front kick panel (hardest part was to line up the plate holes with the holes in the mounting bracket).
freezer would frost up and not get cold enough to keep frozen.
Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.
After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".
I knockedoff the door light sensor when I dropped a frozen jug of ice
I removed the plate (recommend using a magnetic phillips head screw driver to remmove screws which are recessed). I removed the old part and pushed the new part through the hole and carefully reached in behindto attach the wires to the new part.
Remove shelves. Unplug unit. Unscrew back panel. Remove wire harness. Remove old fan. Insert new fan. Screw it in. Reattach wires harness. Plug unit in and make sure fan is on. Reattach back panel. Put shelves back in.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
