Original magnetic door seal no longer sealing & showing gaps. Freezer running continuously. Getting ice buildup around door frame & inside top of freezer.
I originally ordered an aftermarket replacement seal off intranet at half the price. It came in poor packaging & crumpled in a ball when received. After install, it would not seal & worse than the old seal that was replaced. I removed poor quality seal & returned it. I then ordered the OEM seal from PartSelect. It came in proper packaging. I kept the inside door shelving in place with two mid screws. Beginning at top I inserted sealing grove into channel of shelving working all the way around door frame. Making sure there was no crinkles or bulges at one place & it was all even. I replaced all screws ensuring not to over tighten. Close door and made sure magnetic seal pull closed to freezer & door on both sides by sliding my finger all the way around. I did not open the door for 1 hour to ensure rubber seal had taken proper shape to freezer frame. After I worked door Open/Close many times. Door seal worked perfectly every time then and now. This is a perfect example why to buy quality parts the first time.
First I removed the clamp, pulled out the part, and diconnected the two wires on the side and a small screw. Reconnected the new part with the small screw, connected the wires and plugged the part back to the side of the motor. Whaa La, Done.
Freezer making annoying high pitched sound (like a whine)
Parts Select included a video, and I watched a couple more that were on YouTube. Watch the video and do the repair . . . it's very easy took me about 35 min once I got the freezer emptied, including cleaning the freezer. I used a Philips head screw driver and I think it was a 5/16 nut driver . . . you can do this. Freezer running fine, no noise. One thing I would be careful on is removing the back plate that covers the fan and motor, the edges can be sharp and you could cut yourself removing the back plate. Also don't try to put the rubber gasket in before you replace the back plate, install the back plate and the rubber gasket goes in easy peasy :)
Took longer to take out the shelves and the 10 screws holding the cover on then to replace the fan. Local parts supply told me it would take two weeks to get the fan mator,ordered it from parts select and had in a couple days.
I removed the screws and replace the broken slide with the new slide. Put the basket drawer back on the track and it now stays in place and can easily be used once again.
freezer would frost up and not get cold enough to keep frozen.
Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.
After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".
Freeze would not re-start after temp rose above 23 degrees.
Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.