1LG9801XKW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

used your video instructions were great a great tool to repair. know wonder the maytag man is not busy ha ha .

Removed the old one installed the new one

watched the repair video and had no problem doing the repairs. they were VERY helpful!

so being the WOMAN that I am I decided to take it apart. well low and behold I found out it was the pulley and belt so I decide too order from parts select easiest thing I've ever done yay me

The online vidio was very helpfull

Unplugged the power cord. Removed two screws on lint vent , used putty knife to release clips to raise top at front of unit. Disconnected the plug from front door switch. Laid dryer on its back. Removed two screws to remove front including the door. Vacuumed lint from inside unit. Installed belt temporarily using two pieces of masking tape to hold it in place while properly routing the belt. Gave the tub a full turn to insure alignment.. Reinstalled the front of unit with the two screws. Righted the unit and snapped down the top. Replaced the two lint vent screws. Plugged it back in and done! Piece of cake!

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

Followed procedures in Parts Select web site video

little more than vedio showed has a see thru door had to tke door off machine then was easy replacement and re install

I watched the online video first, which made the removal and installation fast and easy.

I watched the video on this site and it went exactly as described, fixed it and it sounds like a new dryer. Was going to junk it, glad I didn't!

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

First, I want to thank everyone else who has submitted their stories and experiences. Basically, follow the YouTube video on how to take part the machine. Don't turn off the gas, but do unplug the electric plug. Vacuuum everything up. Wipe excess dirt off everything. Once open, take out the tensioner piece, and the two rubber wheels which hold the weight of the drum. Clean them out, and sand down the pin from which the two wheels came, and the inside of the wheels. Use a degreaser, or other cleaner to make them good as new. When reassembling them, oil it; I used one of those old fashioned motor oil cans, the little ones left over from grandpa. You know the kind. A few drops and spin the wheels. Clean up the excess and drips. Tear off what's left of the drum seal, clean it, sand it, use a chisel the scrape off the bumps, then sand some more. Wipe it clean. Put on the new seal per the instructions. The diagram that came with it is pretty good. Use clothes pins to pin it down as you put it on. Make sure it fits. Now add glue as you go around, take pins off, then put the, back on to keep it from moving. I used disposable gloves and a rolls of paper towels. It gets a bit messy, but it's ok as long as it's on the outside of the drum. After about 5 hours, I put it back together and let it spin on cool air only. If you don't hear any noise, you're done. One last thing: don't dro the screw down the link catch hole!

I watched the video several times to make sure I got it right. The first thing that was very helpful was how to disassemble the top cover and front panel using a putty knife to disengage the detents. With the cover off I could acccess the belt and idler pulley. Replacing the belt was fairly easy as long as you note the way it threads through the idler pulley and drive pulley. I thought the video was excellent. It took me right to the problem and the fix. As a bonus the price for the belt was much lower from Parts Supply then from Sears. I've recommended this site to several others.

Removed two screws at the top, removed two screws for the front panel, removed the broken belt, installed the new belt, followed the directions that were in the new belt package, and replaced all the panels and tested. It worked.